Anticipation can be such a joy and such a pain. A kid waiting for Christmas waits with happy anticipation. A death row inmate waits with dreaded anticipation. I lie in bed this morning somewhere in between, but definitely closer to the Christmas kid than the inmate. Spending six weeks walking from Lucca to Rome sounds amazing and I can’t wait to get started. But, nagging in the back of my mind is that daunting uncertainty-will we be able to find a room, how will my body hold up, will we get drenched with rain, are my clothes adequate for the conditions we will meet and on and on. Still, if I can quiet the voices of doubt and remember that with our preparation the universe will take care of us, then moving forward with confidence becomes our mode of travel.
We have been packing for a couple weeks, making clothing choices, toiling over what toothbrush to bring, how many pieces of KT tape, what items are in the first aid kit, in the repair kit and more. We have to remember that everything we bring I have to carry for six weeks. Being light is key.
This year we dropped from two sleeping bags to one. In a pinch it will serve for the night, but mostly we use it as a down blanket to augment a scantily covered bed in a cool albergue. This opened up much room in the pack, something we sorely needed last year when we hiked from Assisi to Rome.
I carried a long sleeved, collared shirt last year, but after reviewing photos a few days ago I found I never had it on with my fleece pullover and puffy coat. I had a nagging remembrance that I didn’t really need it, so it stayed home this year. More room and less weight in the pack.
Sally also trimmed down her supplies, leaving at home a dress she took last year, among other items.
The wonderful Caldwells drove us to the airport in Portland this morning, picking us up at 8:00am and arriving at the airport at 9:30. TSA precheck got us through security without a line and by 10:00 we were seated at our gate awaiting our flight.
We met a young woman with her first child, a baby girl, traveling to Minneapolis to visit for 10 days while her husband was on a hunting trip.
The flight to Minneapolis was uneventful. A three hour layover afforded us time to stretch our legs by walking the concourses.
Boarded the flight to Rome at 7:45 and were airborne by 8:20. We were in a middle row of three seats with one seat empty. Not enough to stretch out and sleep, but the extra room is nice to sprawl out our junk. I’m still amazed that something as huge as these planes holds together and gets off the ground and then flys halfway around the world without refueling or breaking down. Stunning.
We landed at 12:10pm in Rome, Rome time. Getting into the EU through customs was photo identification and a passport scan, never talked to a soul. We bought bus tickets and rode to Termini Station. The weather was sunny with occasional clouds. We stopped into a WindTre mobile phone shop to buy a SIM card for Sally’s phone. They were having a sale, one eSIM and one physical SIM, each with 200 Gb of data and unlimited calling for $41.00, for both. It took about half an hour to complete the deal and get the SIMs switched on. They only last 30 of our 44 days. We will have to figure out what to do at the end of 30 days. I have unlimited data for the entire trip through Holafly, but Sally’s phone will go dark.
Having sat for the past 16 hours we decided to walk the 1.3 miles across town to our lodgings, the Queen Palace Suites. As is typical of Rome the streets were busy with continuous streams of pedestrians and vehicles. We worked our way through them, stopping once to retrieve our umbrellas from the pack when a two minute rain shower found us.
Sally was certain we were at a hotel with a 24 hour front desk. When we arrived at our destination according to our phones we couldn’t find a hotel front. We started to walk around to the back, but met with a local woman who said we should look for the address on the building, 21, as it was probably behind a single door front on the street. She was right. We soon found #21 and stepped off the street an into the building with that address. A sign on the interior wall said the Suites were on the 3rd floor. We took the elevator up and found the suites, but no one was there to let us in through the locked door. We activated our new SIM cards ( we were hoping to do this from the quiet and comfort of our new home) and called and emailed the number in booking.com. The proprietor had us text a photo of Sally’s passport, then texted she would arrive in 10 minutes. She did, let us in and showed us to our room. I was fine.
Sally showered and I napped for an hour, then about 5:45 we started walking to Piazza Navona where we were to meet Franny, Jonathan, Nicki, Tom and Susan. We were early so we strolled the piazza until we spotted Jonathan and Franny. Soon the 7 of us were seated at an outside table talking about there just completed walk on the Francigena and our upcoming one. Dinner lasted over three hours as we swapped tales and caught up on each others lives. I was begging to fade. It was now 9:30. We had been awake for about 30 hours, not counting any tiny bit of sleep we might have picked up on the flight. Although everyone was delightful, I could feel the pains associated with lack of sleep creeping in on me. We walked back to our room, stopping to buy half a dozen eggs and two yogurts for breakfast. We were in bed by 10:00 hoping for restful sleep. We are meeting them at the church of Santa Maria Maggiore at 9:30 tomorrow morning, about a 20 minute walk from our room, then off to a guided tour of St. Pete’s with Nicki as Tom and Susan head to the airport to fly to Morocco for another 3 or 4 days of walking.
| Sally on Rome’s narrow sidewalks, walking to our room. |
| In Navona square as the sun sets |