Sunday, July 2, 2023

June 29, 2023 - Day 60 - Flying Home

Our flight leaving Barcelona was at the reasonable hour of 10:15am.  When we arrived in Barcelona by bus from the airport 5 days ago we immediately figured out where to catch the bus back to the airport. This was before I had learned to use and trust “City Mapper” on my phone. Now we put that information to work with a plan to catch the 7:00am bus to the airport, arriving at the airport at 7:50am, plenty of time to spare before our flight.

Sally wanted to get up at 5:30am to prepare for the flight and walk to the bus stop. This gave us time for a leisurely preparation. I had cooked hard boiled eggs the night before, so other than a couple pieces of toast, breakfast was ready. 

We were out the door about 6:30am and walked to the opposite side of Placa Espanya to our bus stop.  We were there early enough to catch the 6:48am bus. Luckily, there were seats available and there was one was facing forward for Sally. The ride was uneventful and we arrived a little after 7:30am. There was no line for security. We were soon sitting at Burger King on cushioned seats killing time until our flight’s gate was announced. This first flight was a 2 hour hop to London Heathrow. There we had a 5 hour layover until our 4:15 flight left for Seattle. 

The difference between flying on an AirBus 320 and a 787 is significant. The AirBus is like flying in a Spam can. The 787 is like flying in a BMW. We boarded on time and found our seats were the coveted ones by the middle of the plane exit doors, the ones with unlimited leg room.  How did that happen?  I watched the movie Contact for the first 2.5 hours of the flight, then caught up on a couple of blog posts, listened to my book, did some reading, closed my eyes for a couple minutes and before I knew it the 9 hour flight was done and we were landing in Seattle. It is weird to take off at 4:15pm, fly for nine hours and land at 5:45pm. We deplaned and headed for customs. But first, we stopped at the Global Entry office to get our Global Entry status established. This will make it quicker and easier to enter the US after a trip out of the country. We had to wait about 20 minutes as there were a half dozen people in front of us. When our turn came we entered the office. I had brought my conditionally approved status up on my phone. The officer got me registered, recorded a photo of me and my finger prints and then turned to Sally. She gave him her passport. He searched the computer and she did not show up as a conditionally approved applicant. It had been 5 months since we even thought about it, so I didn’t remember to log into the TSA website with her name and password to bring her application up.  Sally remembered writing down her approval number, but it was in our checked bags which we had not picked up yet. We left the office a little confused and very disappointed that she did not get approved and I had.

We took the escalator down and picked up our packs at baggage claim.  Sally took out her notebook and found her number. We asked an agent how to get back up to the Global Entry office as the only escalators we saw, 3 of them, all went down.  The woman barked at us that we were to get into the the line she had pointed out to us, as if we were being told to get in line or else.  We walked over to get in the line and met another officer.  These two could not have been any more different.  He was smiling and kind and helpful. He told us there was an elevator we could take to get back up. On our way to the elevator we found a set of stairs and climbed back up and reentered the office. Sally gave him her number and he was able to bring her application up. He was confused as to why her Passport number had not worked. We got Sally squared away. Since we both now had Global Entry, we went through that line to customs.  By this time there was no one else left in the cavernous customs area. The customs agent asked us what flight we had been on because we were so far after our flight she couldn’t comprehend where we had come from. 

Once through customs we stepped outside and texted the Caldwells to let them know we were ready for pickup. They were at South Center shopping. It took them about 20-25 minutes to arrive.

By now it was 7:30pm. We had awoken at 5:30am, Spanish time. That’s 14 hours, plus we need to add on the 9 hour time difference. We have been awake for 23 hours. We both had that scratchy feeling you get when really tired, but the fact that the sun hadn’t set yet had our internal clocks really confused.

We got home about 9:00pm. It wasn’t dark yet so we could see what condition our place was in after our 2 month hiatus. A quick summary showed that our lawn was 65% brown and in bad need of water, the garden was totally full of chest high weeds, the flower beds at the front of the house were bone dry with the dahlias stunted and not blooming and the house was clean and inviting.

As tired as I was, I spent an hour setting up the sprinklers to run all night and water the lawn. The raised bed with the carrots was dry and the carrots were wilted. I watered them. Then I got to bed about 10:30pm.  I am not looking forward to adjusting back to our time zone. It usually takes a couple of weeks.  We are both looking forward to getting together with friends, kids and especially our 4 grandchildren.


Thoughts:

It does not seem like we were gone two months. Not at all. But if you look at the heading for this entry, this is day 60. Two months.

We met incredible people on our walk. Friends we hope to keep for the rest of our lives, even though they are spread across the globe-Australia, Connecticut, Czech Republic, Germany, England, South Africa, Spain and more.

The Spanish people are incredibly kind. Every public transportation we took we saw people give up their seats to older or physically challenged people. They helped the blind find their way, they picked up dropped items and chased down the person who dropped it, they were quick to help with directions, etc. It was amazing to watch and to be a included.

The Camino was very busy, with over 400 people a day starting from Saint Jean Pied de Port. Accommodations had to be booked in advance to assure a bed each night.

Barcelona’s public transportation system is second to none. We rode buses, subways and funiculars for 5 days. They were always on time, clean, comfortable and quick-and well used. The buses were full as was the subway. In the US only those that can’t afford a car ride the buses and trains. Not so in Spain. All walks of life are on public transportation. It is safe, clean and efficient.

Beware of pickpockets. That was the first thing we were told when we shared that we planned to travel to Barcelona.  We must have heard it 20 times. It was the first thing people said to us when we said we were going to Barcelona. It gave us a negative impression of the city before we even arrived. We took the same precautions we take in any large city, money belts and empty pockets and Sally wears her purse across her body, not just slung over an arm. In our 5 days there we never once felt unsafe. Not at night or in big crowds during the day. The city was clean, people friendly. The city even pays musicians to busker at particular locations in the city to add to the vibe of the areas. A really nice touch.

Spain is a beautiful country. The Pyrenees, the plains, and the coastal areas were all magnificent. Spain is as modern and put together as any 1st world country and in many respects puts the US to shame. The cell service and web connections were excellent. The country currently has over 24,000 wind turbines in operation, supplying over 30% of their energy needs, with more coming on line weekly.

It has taken them a while to emerge from under Franco’s dictatorship when it ended in the 1970’s, a disadvantage that put them behind the rest of Europe, but now they are a vibrant, modern economy.

I look forward to our next visit to Spain.



The living room/dining room in our apartment


The rooftop deck in our apartment with the art museum/palace in the distance



Bedroom in apartment



Shopping in downtown Barcelona



June 28, 2023 - Day 59 - Day 3 in Barcelona

Today, the original plan was to go back downtown and explore the sites that were closed when we toured there Sunday, go to the Joan Miro museum and see his works and then spend the afternoon at the beach. We decided to visit the Miro museum first which is in the Montjuic Park. We took the L3 line two stops and then exited to above ground to ride the funicular up the hill. Problem was, the funicular is accessed from underground at the metro stop. It took us some exploration to learn this. We returned to the metro, discovered we had walked right by the sign pointing to the funicular when we exited and then went the correct way to get to it.

We got off at the top, exited the station and then slowly walked up to the fort on top of the hill. Even though it was only 9:30 in the morning we were dripping in sweat. I checked the temperature-79° with 60% humidity. 

On top at the fort entrance we bought a Coke from a street vendor, cooled down a bit, enjoyed the look down at the harbor below. 

We walked down past the tram station and down the hill to the Miro museum. Here we entered and toured for about an hour and a half then reversed our route down the funicular and on the metro to our place for lunch. 

Next, it was back to the Ramblas to visit the cathedral and Roman columns we missed on Sunday, a little shopping and then back to the apartment. A quick turnaround and across the street to the converted bullfighting arena. It has five floors, the 4th and 5th dedicated to a 12 plex theatre complex. It was opening night for the Dial of Destiny Indiana Jones movie and the lines were long. We walked to a sidewalk restaurant for dinner, our only meal out in Barcelona, to celebrate our last night before flying home tomorrow. Sally had salmon, me a hamburger. Both were excellent. We returned to the apartment. Sally showered and we washed a load of clothes, then we decided to go see the Sagrada Familia at night when it is all lit up.  

We rode the L3 and L5 to the Sagrada Familia and arrived about 8:40pm. Not dark yet. We walked to a grocery to get bread for tomorrow’s lunch on the flight, and three boxes of the cookies that I fell in love with here, then we walked back to the cathedral, found two of the bolted down chairs on the sidewalk unoccupied and waited for the city to get dark and the lights to come on. Well, it did finally get dark about 10:00pm, but they don’t illuminate the cathedral at night. A little disappointed, we rode back to our apartment, arriving home about 11:00pm. We packed up and got ready to leave for our bus ride to the airport at 6:30am tomorrow morning. I was so tired I just staggered around the place blindly putting everything in my pack while Sally showered again after sweating on our trip to the cathedral. I collapsed into bed while Sally finished packing up. Our last day in Barcelona came to a close. 



View of the harbor from the top of Montjuïc 



Sally with Joan Miro



A Miro original



A wall size Miro tapestry



Boarding the funicular to descend from Montjuïc 



Roman columns in Barcelona



Shopping in Barcelona




June 27, 2023 - Day 58 - Day 2 in Barcelona

Today is the start of another half-day of Gaudí. Yesterday it was his buildings downtown in the morning and his cathedral in the afternoon. This morning it is his park up the hill from the old town area quite a ways, Guell Park. I had a hard time discerning just exactly what it was we were going to see from what I had read. We allowed a full morning for our visit. A couple things that had not occurred to me that came as a surprise were (1) it is on quite a hillside, (2) there isn’t really much there except some for a terrace and some footpaths and a couple houses that look like something Hansel and Gretel would try to eat and (3) how many people come to view this place. Gaudi was wildly successful in nearly all he did, but I guess everyone has a failure. This was a housing development he was creating for society (rich) people to get out of the stuffy cramped old town Barcelona. But, it was too far out of town putting the ladies too distant from shopping and restaurants and they would have to walk up and down hills if they built homes here. The literature blames its failure to attract new house construction on the outbreak of WWI, but I think it might have been the gaudy elements Gaudi created that were a turnoff to the prospective home owners. Anyway, it wasn’t much to visit in my opinion, but it was educational and instructive. 

We arrived about 9:00am by bus, wanting to avoid the metro so we could see the city as we traveled through it rather than slithering underground and popping out somewhere new. We had to walk about 4 or 5 blocks uphill and then wait half an hour for the park to open. We were the first ones there and it appeared as if not to many people visited. However, by 9:30am there was quite a line at the gate. We wandered around the park, climbing up to the “patio” area twice, once from each side, encouraged by one of the many docents guarding the area. By the time we left at about 11:00am the place was packed with people. Massive crowds filling every trail and path. 

We walked back down and caught the bus back to our apartment for lunch. The bus ride was very slow as the traffic was thick. Now we remembered why the metro is so amazing. It doesn’t have to deal with traffic. 

After our lunch of sandwiches we took the L2 Green line back to the Ramblas and walked through town to the Picasso Museum. Picasso grew up in Barcelona, the son of an art teacher. This museum displays his early work. 

We walked the back streets to get to the museum, a fun way to go as the streets are too narrow for a car to fit and the buildings are about 3 to 4 stories high. Like walking in the canyons of the desert southwest. 

Somehow we just walked into the museum without being noticed by the people taking tickets. We started looking at the exhibits and then realized we had paid for an audio tour when we bought our tickets online so we went out to find how to get our handheld audio devices and then reentered again without our tickets being scanned. The organization of the museum was pretty poor. Between the audio tour and Rick Steves’ written summaries we got a lot from the visit and gained an appreciation of Picasso, but also felt like some of the audio descriptions of the interpretations of his works was like a Monte Python parody sketch about stuffy art critics. 

We finished the museum and stopped in a square for a beer and a soda (€8-almost US prices). Then we remembered we needed to go to the Sweet Lima coffee shop a few blocks away and see if the item Mike Morgan had left us about a month ago was still there. We walked in and asked for a coffee from Mike Morgan. The attendant just gave us a blank stare. We showed him Mike's text describing what he had left and how he was supposed to give it to us. He said he didn’t know anything about it. Bummer. But they did have outrageously good brownies and chocolate cake which we devoured. 

From here we walked down to the waterfront and the beach to check it out for our planned swim for tomorrow. As we wove our way down sidewalks through town a dad with his little girl on his shoulders passed us. She had a clear plastic backpack on with toys inside. I was staring at the toys and not watching where I was walking. Yep, you guessed it. I stepped into the well around a tree in the sidewalk, about 4” deep and fell flat on my face. Luckily, I caught myself with my cat line reflexes (hah!) and didn’t face plant. I didn’t hurt myself-no broken ribs or torn rotator cuff this time, no sprained ankle, just bruised pride. 

Once at the beach we walked the length of it, enjoyed people watching and the breeze (85° and partially sunny). At the other end of the beach we caught a bus back to where we started our beach walk, then transferred to another bus that dropped us a block from our apartment. We had dinner in our apartment, cup of noodles, and then we planned to go checkout the bullfighting stadium that has been turned into a shopping mall. We rested a few minutes, which turned into a couple hours. I was in the living room vegging on my phone waiting for Sally to come out of the bedroom to go. Next thing I knew it was 10:00pm and when I went in to check on Sally, she was in bed asleep. I crawled in and was quickly asleep. I guess we wore ourselves out. But what a great day. 



Tile sign at Guell Park



Staircase and two Gaudi buildings at Guell Park



Some of the path structures at the park 



Tile mosaic seats on the edge of the raised plaza overlooking the city



More of the seating along the edge of the raised “deck”



Forest of pillars that hold up the park's main square



Morgan had hid something here for us a month ago. The attendant knew nothing about it.