Thursday, August 13, 2009

Monday, August 10-Whitney Approach

This is ridiculous! We knew the John Muir trail was busy, people fly
from all over the world to hike it's length and that it is more of a
"social" experience than a wilderness experience, but . . . Come On!
This is ridiculous.
At Wallace Creek we walked up stream from the trail crossing quite a
ways to avoid the people. We saw no one all night and thought we had
the place to ourselves. We awoke at 5:30, packed and were on the trail
by 6:45 again. When we emerged from our seclusion to the JMT we found
three parties camped on the other side of the creek from us, just out
of our view but not more than ten feet from the trail. So much for
100' from water and trail when camping. But, in their defense you are
given conflicting orders when you receive your permit. "Camp 100' from
trail and water and only camp in established campsites.". Problem is,
most established campsites are right alongside the trail, so people
use them rather than seek out a more secluded established site.
We started our climb out of Wallace Creek, beginning our 8 mile
approach to the base of Mt. Whitney which we hope to climb tomorrow.
Before we make it the 4.4 miles to Crabtree Meadows we are passed by
at least 25 people. As we begin our ascent from Crabtree at 10,700 to
the base of Whitney at 12,000' we are passed by at least another 40
people. All are camping at Guitar Lake, the most popular backpacking
destination in the country (We are reminded of this as we pass thru
Crabtree Meadows. The area ranger has a tub of poop bags sitting by
the trail with a sign stating this fact and that you are to collect
your poop in the bags and carry it out with you when you exit the
wilderness. I am an old hand at this. Mt. Rainier requires the same.)
We huff and puff our way up to Guitar Lake at 11,500', a perfect jewel
of a lake nestled in the grandest glacial cirque I have ever seen. The
lake's name comes from it's shape, a near perfectly shaped acoustical
guitar. We knew everyone that passed us was coming here, and sure
enough there are10 groups camped around the lake. We climb above the
lake 150' vertical feet to a small pond on a shelf of granite to find
6 more parties. We finally ascend to 12,000' in the barren rock fields
to find a great place to camp - and four more parties. It is going to
be crowded on Whitney tomorrow!
Shame takes a backseat to cleanliness in the mountains. I had climbed
ahead of Sally to find a campsite and found a bivy site lined with a
rock wall right next to a little pond perfect for bathing. I dropped
my pack and went back to guide Sally in as she mounted the shelf. As
we approached our site a lovely lady with a gorgous figure was
stripped nude and washing herself in the pond. It certainly did not
offend me, nor was she worried as Sally and I approached. Oh, what
wildlife! Sally and I returned the favor a few minutes later with our
own bathing episode. I am sure unlike us, they averted their gaze.
There is nothing less attractive than middle age white bodies flailing
nude in a mountain pond. We spent the afternoon basking in our
cleanliness, Sally honing her ever proving uke skills and I writing
blog posts for the past three days.
With any luck, we will be standing on the summit of Mt Whitney
tomorrow . . . along with the 85 other people camped in and around the
Guitar Lake basin (not to mention the hoards that will be climbing
from the east side of the mountain, too).

Chuck

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