"The only difference between an ordeal and an adventure, is attitude."
-unknown
Piombino, the mainland town that the ferry from Elba docks at is only about a 2 and a half hour drive from Florence. We landed in Piombino at about 7:35 am, yet arrived in in Florence at 2:35 pm. What could have taken so long? And why did we have such a good time making the journey?
Our last morning on Elba was like our first, only 3 and a half hours earlier. I awoke at 4:55am, just 5 minutes before the alarm was to ring to the sound of birds chirping in the trees. We had to rise at 5:00 am to take showers, stuff our last items in our bags, eat breakfast and be on the road to the ferry dock by 5:45 am. I headed to the bathroom down the hill for a shower, then back to dress and stuff my last items into my pack while Sally went through her morning routine. I headed to the community tent with my pack to fix breakfast and put our remaining food in my pack for the day's ferry and train rides to Florence. Mark was up at 5:15 am, Sally was at the tent and together we had breakfast, although not a sit down, discuss the day's coming events type of breakfast, more of a take care of the little details while grabbing mouthfuls of food breakfast. Mark went down to start the van and open the campground gate while Sally wrote a note of thanks and finished packing. Then it was down the hill for the last time and into the waiting van.
We said goodbye to Mark at the ferry dock and walked up the gangplank onto the waiting ferry. It was now 6:15 am. After an hour cruise across the early morning sunlit waters we were on the dock in Piombino at 7:35 am. The train station is just across the road. We walked to it to check it out, then, with an hour and forty five minutes to kill before our train, we went to the ferry waiting room and read the news on the web and further planned our stay in Florence. About 8:50 am we headed for the train station to catch our 9:20 am train. A few people gathered with us, a 40 something Austrian and his father who had been sailing in the area of Elba for a week and two Russian 20 something girls. The announcer began making periodic statements over the PA about "retardo" this and that, so we all assumed the train would be late. By 9:50 am it was becoming apparent that something was wrong. The dad returned from outside the station to tell his son, who interpreted for us, that the train was "broken" and was not going to be coming to Piombino this morning.
Piombino is a dead end track that connects to the main line about 10 miles away. Apparently, there was something wrong with the track and the train was not coming down. Two taxi drivers outside the station confirmed the story. The Austrian help push the idea that we should, all six of us, take taxis to the other station at Campiglia Marittima where we could catch a train to Pisa, and then to Florence. We piled into two taxis and quickly traversed the distance, for 40 euro, which we split with the Austrians. A discussion with the ticket agent coaxed another 6.20 euro from us to catch the fast train to Pisa so we could catch an earlier train from there to Florence. It was now 10:20 am. The next train to Pisa came at 12:09 pm, if it was on time, which the ticket agent said was rare, as it was coming all the way from Sorrento.
Sally and I had lunch; bread, cheese, nectarines and a salad left over from dinner last night, while seated on the benches at the train station. We filmed an instructional video on how to use the automated toilet system and generally just had a good time. We moved to "binario due", platform 2, and caught our train to Pisa, only 5 minutes late.
Checking the schedule via the web, we saw that our "fast train" was late enough to cause us to miss our 1:10 pm connection at Pisa, unless it was late as well. We disembarked at Pisa a few minutes late for the 1:10 pm train, but scurried between the 9 binari, hoping it had not left. It had. The next train to Florence left at 1:35 pm from binario 9, so we settle onto that platform and waited.
Once on board the train to Florence, we were seated across the aisle from a couple from Ohio, and had a good time comparing experiences. They had taken a cruise from Naples to the Greek Islands for a week, making about 6 stops along the way. They were amazed to see what little we had for a 7 week trip. They had four massive suitcases, although it must be remembered they were on a cruise where the clothing requirements are a bit steep compared to bumming around Italy via train. They were staying at Hiltons while traveling, enjoying the exercise rooms, English speaking attendants and the "American" style amenities. They were a little repulsed by the descriptions of our camping experience and Air B&B accommodations. Still, they were warm and friendly people and we enjoyed our time with them.
We arrived in Florence at 2:35 pm. From the train station we walked out to the back of the Santa Maria Novella church, took a number at the information kiosk, and soon were purchasing our Firenze Passes at 72 euros each to allow us into all the museums for "free" and to bypass the ticket lines.
Our B&B room was only about 2 blocks from the station, so we began working our way there. We bypassed it at first, then, with helpful directions from a shoe shop worker, found our way. The owner was waiting for us at the door. He had us try our keys in the courtyard outer door, then the gate. The building is right on a very busy street, with traffic thundering by. I wondered how loud our room would be. He offered to have Sally and i ride up in the elevator together and he would follow with our luggage, as the elevator was a tight fit for two. My antenna perked up, sensing danger. We get in the elevator, the doors close and we start up while someone makes off with all our stuff. I politely and quickly said I would carry our stuff up the three floor and he and Sally could ride up together, and started mounting the stairs before he had a chance to object. You might be wondering, "Did he look dangerous?" Not in the least, in fact, he seemed a very kind and gentle man. Still, I was new in the city and did not want to leave my stuff with someone I had met 3 minutes earlier, even if he had just handed me keys and made me test them in the locks and was under the scrutiny of all the Air B&B users out there.
When I reached the third floor (4th floor for Americans. The Italians start counting floors with the one above the ground floor.) I turned around to see he had followed me up the stairs and had let Sally use the elevator by herself. He was a big guy and perhaps he and Sally would have been an awkward and uncomfortable fit. He pointed me to the door of our room. I opened it to find a beautiful room. Wood floors, everything meticulously color coordinated in soft shades of pale green, spotless bathroom and nice additions such as antique desk/table and coat rack. Super nice! It was on the backside of the building and was dead quiet. I complimented him on the room and expressed great joy at seeing it. He seemed pleased, and then was gone.
We took showers and prepared to head out. We planned to do the Rock Steves walking tour of Florence, to orient ourselves within the city and get a good overview. Our room is only a block from the Duomo, so we headed there first, except we were hungry, having spent the day in train stations and trains. We had a hankering for some Kabab sandwiches. Using google maps we found our way to a shop. A quick meal and we were back on our mission.
I have read so much about the Duomo of Florence, watched movies, seen photos, listened to lectures, etc. that it was a thrill to see it for real. We walked up to it and the adjacent baptistery and soaked in the grandeur. To quote the four ninja turtles named after the renaissance masters, "Totally awesome dude!" I headed straight for the baptistery doors, starting on the north side, the original work of Ghiberti. Of course, the ones here are copies, the real ones are in the Duomo museum now, but still, what a treat to see. These are the panels that kicked off the renaissance, that inspired all artists that followed.
We circled around to the east side to see the second set of doors Ghiberti conceived and produced. Fantastico!!
After half an hour of gawking, we donned our headsets and listened to Rick Steves walking tour of Florence. It took us about two hours to get through the 50 minute tour as we stopped and marveled at sculptures and buildings. We finished up on the Ponte Vecchio, took a quick walk to the Pitti Palace, then returned back to the Duomo. A quick trip to a grocery store a few blocks away for breakfast supplies and we were back in our room, me writing the blog and Sally listening to "The Agony and the Ecstacy". What an awesome day!!
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