Up and down to breakfast at 8:30 am. We slept in a bit and didn't push to be out the door quick today as we had no bus to catch. After a couple bowls of Muselix and multiple pieces of peanut butter and jelly toast, we headed out the door, bound for the corner shop to buy return trip bus tickets from Porlezza and one way tickets to Como (for tomorrow when we have to leave for the Dolomites). Next, to the TI to learn where best to navigate our way to Porlezza. It is about 14 kilometers and we learn there is a pretty way through a park for part of it after which we get on a rails to trails path for the rest. With map, description, food, water and sunscreen in hand, we are on our way.
The first part of the walk is up through town, climbing the 500 ft required to get on topic the divided between the two lakes. This is accomplished in town on cobblestone and asphalt paved streets, passing churches, villas and lots of houses. Along the way, we are passed by a couple about our age. We notice they are navigating by the same map we are using and making the same turns about 50 yards in front of us. At one corner they hesitate, trying to determine which way to go. We catch up to them and in talking with them, find they are on the same route as we are, at least for the next mile or so. We walk together, talking and navigating the turns through the town on this uphill climb. They are from London and very nice.
When we crest the hill, we are in some kind of large green space/park. About 200 yards into it, we part company, they going straight up the shady cobblestone lane and we duck left through a gap in the fence and into the woods.
Sally is doing great, which is surprising, considering the strenuous hike we did yesterday.
The description of our route says we follow a trail down hill steeply around many bends (switchbacks) in this densely wooded ravine until we find a river with a cascade nearby. We cross the river on a bridge and climb up to the village of Cardano. Well, somewhere on the descent of this little used and sketchy trail, I lost it. I must have walked off the end of a switchback, but regardless, we were soon bush whacking our way down hill, following a game trail or something. We came to what appeared to be a concrete lined water way, now nearly dry. We crossed it, still following a sketch sign of a trail angling downward. Below us we heard voices, and we saw what appeared to be a trail crew. We walked to there position on the concrete riverbed and tried to ask directions, but they spoke no English. I put my meager Italian to work. In class we had covered scenarios for greetings, restaurants, train stations and hotels but had not gotten to lost in the woods asking for directions. After a while we learned from these mid 30's men with a weed eater and other tools that there was no ""Ponte" (bridge) at the bottom. They suggested we climb back up, turn "sinistre" (left) and continue down the "tourist" path. We climbed up the concrete sluiceway to the point where we parted with our English friends and followed the lane we were originally on for a bit.
I had my phone with Gaia GPS HD Open Hiking Maps and soon located us. There was another route available, and since our intended route was now suspect, we went for option two. 400 yards up the road we found a beautiful stone bridge across the river near two stone farm houses, crossed and then doubled back down the river on a nice trail that eventually led us into Cardano. Cardano was key, because deom here we would follow roads to connect with the bike trail. We had now walked about 3 miles. Following the printed guide from the TI, we found our way through the village and onto the bike trail. From this point on the walking was easy, on paved trail and only mildly confusing at a few turns in the road.
We stopped for lunch at Lago di Piano, a small lake along the route, sitting on the grassy shore watching the ducks play and feed in the water as we ate bread, cheese, apples and a cookie or two. Back up and walking 30 minutes later, we walked the final 3 miles to Porlezzo and the shore of Lake Lugano. We stopped into a lakeside food shop and got two Cokes. We were attracted to this particular one because Sally saw a Pepsi machine there. After weeks of Coke, she was delighted to see a Sign for Pepsi. However, when we looked in the refrigerated display case, there was only beer and Coke.
We walked around to the front counter and ordered a Pepsi. When the young woman behind the counter said they only had Coke, Sally feigned severe disappointment and said the sign had given her false hope. Sally laughingly intimated that she had walked all the way from Menaggio to here for a Pepsi. The woman the other two young men behind the bar were impressed with our walk. We bought a diet and regular Coke and sat in some comfy chairs to rest from the walk and enjoy our drinks. The hound woman from the bar appeared a few minutes later with a basket full of potato chips and said sorry about no Pepsi. She was very kind.
It was now 3:30 pm. Our bus back to Menaggio was scheduled for 4:30 pm. We relaxed another ten minutes, then walked ten minutes to downtown to check out the waterfront and the shops. Sally, as is her joy, went shoe shopping. I bought a bottle of frezzante water. We walked back to the bus stop and sat down. A bus pulled in about 15 minutes early. I asked "a Menaggio?" No. I sat back down. Sally was in the ferry office looking for schedules and prices. Another bus pulled up at twenty after. Sally came out and we walked to the bus. The driver opened the door. Just like in Italian class, I asked something that caused the driver to give me a very funny look. I repeated it and again got a "what?" look. Sally gave me the same look and then faced the driver and said "Menaggio?" The driver said "Si. Si." We climbed on board. I asked Sally what I had said but she couldn't remember. Hmmm . . . What was even weirder was the driver closed the doors behind us and off we went-10 minutes ahead of schedule. Glad we came early.
Back at Menaggio we stopped in at the TI to thank the lady for the good directions and return one of her maps. We wandered over to grocery to pick up breakfast and lunch. We have to catch a 6:45 am bus tomorrow morning to Como at the head of the lake to pick up a rental car at 8:00 am to drive to the Dolomites.
We ate the dinner served at the hostel tonight. The cook is very good. He and his assistant have a great time. Big smiles and fun. They love to cook. We ate Sunday dinner with them, then a salad Monday and Tuesday night. Wednesday we split a Kabab sandwich. Today we had lasagna for Prima piatte e potatoes and meat balls for contorno. Desert was ice cream. All excellent. 13.50€ each.
We went up to our room showered and rested, checking email and reading the news. What a great day!
A few side notes:
The drain in our shower emits sewers gas and makes the bathroom smell. On Monday I cut the top off a Coke can and we place it over the drain when not taking a shower. This eliminates the smell. The bathroom, toilet and shower is about 2 & 1/2 foot by 5 feet. Very tiny. It only took a few minutes for it to start stinking if the Coke van was off.
Our room has four beds even though it is just the two of us. Two are bunks and two are side by side on the floor. That takes up pretty much the whole floor space. The window in the lake side opens up like a set of French doors. Sally and I can stand side bi side and look out at the lake, the lightning, the pelting rain, the full moon . . . The world. Fantastico
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