Party at the Pass - Monday, June 23

Okay, let's dispel all the myths right now before we go on to describe today's activities. Far Out had it right two months ago when he said this was Tough As Sh*t! Without Sally here to act as a voice of reason I push each day, trying to do my 20 miles. So far I have succeeded. Today I did 23.5 miles up over Muir Pass and down to Piute Creek. When I got to this familiar place (Sally and I were here about 7 years ago) about 6:30 I was physically exhausted. Thank goodness the weather is so pleasant. If I had to endure a rain storm or cold wind after my exertions I would be in trouble. I spread my Tyvek, soak my feet and get water, try to stretch some of the day's soreness out of my back while dinner is cooking and go to bed. The level of overall fatigue is remarkable as I push to do the pace necessary to complete the PCT in a single season. Today, the last 17.5 miles were downhill and level, which is easier aerobically, but murder on the feet. And although my pack is much lighter without Sally it is on my back for 12 hours a day. Sally opted out of this last portion of our planned trip to save me the physical exertion of supporting the two of us, but I am significantly more taxed at the end of each day now than for the two months previous in this adventure. I need her back to save me from myself.

I was on the trail at 5:45 this morning with 2700' to climb over 6 miles to Muir Pass, the gem of all the high passes in the Sierra, in my opinion. The climb transitions from tall timber to stunted Whitebark Pines to heather and low ground flowers to rock and snow fields past a series of benches and cliffs, waterfalls and lakes with majestic granite peaks all around. It is breathtakingly beautiful, especially in the early morning when the suns glancing rays accentuate every snow field, flower, tree, rock and waterfall and imbue each with the rosy colors of sunrise. Stunning.

Tie Dye caught up with me a mile from from the pass, right at the outlet of Helen Lake. Half a mile later I caught up with Dogger, a 60 year old former industrial painter from Michigan. He was having some trouble with the altitude (12,000') which he blamed on paint fumes, silica dust and asbestos. Billy and Silvia had gotten a little off route and ended up at the pass at the same time via a circuitous route out into the southern basin. A few minutes after our arrival Fun Fact, Good Time and Vessel joined us.

We had an excellent time swapping stories, discussing John Muir, climbing in and on the Muir Hut and most important of all, eating and laughing. Fun Fact, Good Tome and Vessel are leaving the trail at Tuolumne and fly out of Reno on July 9, the day after I fly out. We swapped phone numbers and made a date for pizza the night of the seventh. Our party broke up after a half hour, each of us feeling the need to put down some miles. I walked with Billy and Silvia for the next four miles as we traversed Evolution Basin down to Evolution Lake. This is the most magnificent four miles in the Sierra in my opinion.

I stopped for an early lunch at 11:30 at the roaring inlet to Evolution Lake. Billy and Silvia continued on to the outlet, a mile and a half away to eat theirs.

Tie Dye and I leapfrogged each other over the next 12 miles as we descended into lushly wooded and amply meadowed Evolution Valley. After fording the knee deep Evolution Creek we switch backed down to the San Joaquin River, followed it for 5 miles and set up camp where Paiute Creek joins the San Joaquin. Tie Dye went on to Muir Trail Ranch, a packing station and hiker resupply point two miles off the PCT. I had already done 23.5 miles and the additional 3.5 were too much for me. Muir Ranch closed at 5 and did not open until 8 in the morning, so I planned to hike to it in the morning and check it out as it was one of the places I had always heard about, but never been to. I wrote my blog, then prepared each for delivery as rumor has it I will get cell service as I near Vermillion Valley Ranch tomorrow or the next day. It is about 25 trail miles away, but I don't think after today I can pull off another 20+ mile day so soon.