Since we entered Galicia, the markers for the trail have been much more prominent and nicely done. Every road intersection has a marker. It is much easier to find you way and I find myself not using my GPS nearly so much. Of course, we are getting nearer to Santiago and the number of people now walking the way has greatly increased. O’Cebrieno is a popular starting point. Guessing, I would say our numbers have doubled. We understand that 2000 people a day arrive in Santiago. Up to this point, I could not see those kinds of numbers, but now . . . we aren’t there yet, but the next big town we hit, Sarria, is the most popular starting point on the “way”. We will see how many join us later today, although we probably won’t notice their numbers until tomorrow.
We tiptoed out in the morning, dressed, washed up and had breakfast in the downstairs kitchen, then walk through town and back on the “way”. The route followed farm roads through hilly country. Sometimes the road was remarkably steep. We witnesses what 1000 years of water erosion can do to a trail. At times we were walking in a ditch over 8 feet deep and wide enough to drive a car down. I imagine that over the years as the erosion gouged out a portion of the trail tread the locals ran evened out the tread for carts, thus lowering the whole road a bit. 1000 years of this creates a very cool road, like a luge track.
We ended up on top with the roads traversing through farms, the full moon shining on the western horizon. It looked like rural Lewis County minus the mobile homes and excessive junk piled around the outbuildings and houses (no cracks about excessive cars).
The stops were not as plentiful as the day before and we found ourselves looking for a shot of caffeine after a couple hours underway. About this time, as we were walking next to a walled in home we came upon their open gate. This turned out to be a German run rest station with tables of food set out and a donation box. We stepped in and had some cookies and tea, a much needed stop. We also talked to a German volunteer, a kid in his mid 20’s. Nice, kind kid.
After another hour we found an open cafe and stepped inside. Now we were beginning to see the increase in people. While stopped, at least 25 people joined up inside or at the outside tables and another 50 walked past. As we approached this cafe we met Nancy and Maggie from Ireland and had a good discussion about Brexit, Johnson, Trump and Irish history.
We got to Sarria about 11:30am. Feeling strong, we continued onto Barbadelo, about 3.5 miles outside of town. Once across the river in Sarria it is a healthy climb up into town. Stopped at the top for a soda and met Peter from Denmark. We had met him the previous two morning, in the dark, as he passed us. Now, for the first time we got to see what he looked like. We chatted for a few minutes before we headed out of town, he going to the same place as us, Casa Barbadelo.
Down the hill out of town, past corn fields (we stole two ears of corn), then up a steep hill and another half mile to the albergue.
This one was like a resort. New and modern, with a swimming pool. 10€ each for the night. We laid in the grass planning out the next couple days and making reservations, inspired by the numbers of people we were seeing.
We ate dinner at the restaurant, splitting a salad and potato quiche. We sat with Peter. I was still hungry, like starving after our shared meal, so I ordered the 3 course, 10€ pilgrims meal, spaghetti, seafood papea and chocolate cake. It took about 2 hours to get through the courses as the waiter was slow to bring each one, but we enjoyed talking with Peter through it all. Of course, we did not finish until after dark, which is quite late here as you will realize if you read my ramblings about time zones. We snuck into our dormitory, packed quietly, then realized we had not phoned to have our bag transported in the morning. I stepped outside and called, struggled with the Spanish/English divide, but produced enough Spanish that we had an understanding and stepped back inside to sleep.
Great day, lots of miles, good people, nice dinner. One more in the record books. What will tomorrow bring?
1000 years of erosion?
Food for pilgrims along the “way”
Through the farm lands
Trail in a ditch
Lots of moisture in the air. Spider webs were amazing.
The crowds of pilgrims begins to grow
Andrew of Germany. Walked this way many times before.
A group of heart attack survivors walking the Camino. Some for the 7th time.
Sally in Sarria, climbing up thru town
Peter of Denmark.
The dorm room
Casa Barbados. Great place to stay. Bunk beds too soft.
Sally poolside
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