We set our sites on 10-15 miles a day, especially for the first week of walking as we break ourselves in to the rigors of walking on pavement and gravel roads day after day. It has worked well for us. Other than a few small blisters on Sally’s feet, so far (cross your fingers and knock on wood) we are okay. We guessed correctly that starting at Burgos is a good thing. The ground is nearly flat for the first 150 miles, never rising or falling more than a couple hundred feet at a time . A good way to break in to distance walking. We are just two days away from Leon and two days after that we leave the plains of Spain (it has never rained) and enter Galicia, a more hilly, then mountainous region.
Our 10-15 miles is good for our bodies, but not for maintaining contact with our new friends. They are closer to 14-18 miles a day and are slowly leaving us behind. Last night they were 6 miles ahead of us. Today they are 12 miles ahead. As much as we would like to stay up with them, we cannot. The extra miles puts at risk our whole adventure. But, although Pat, Mary, Sandy, Regina, Karen, Tanya and Brian are ahead, there are lots of people around that we are getting acquainted with. There is no lack of people. We will not be alone, nor could we be even if we wanted to.
Both Sally and I found the convent to be a depressing atmosphere. We found little laughter and stern countenances. The rooms and building were spartan. And this morning we were to observe silence until 7:00am. I can respect others religions and beliefs. I am just glad I don’t have to live by them in my everyday life.
In silence, we got up at 5:30 this morning and packed our bags, one to be transported, one to carry. We filled out the tag and attached it to my pack. We went back to the dining room for breakfast; dried bread with jam, crackers, and tea. The tea taste great!
We slipped out the door about 6:25 and headed west. The first town was 5 miles away. We enjoyed the cool, still, early morning air. A stop for a Coke in the first town, then up and at it again. This time, no town for 5.5 miles, El Burgo Ranero, our destination for the day. The air began to heat up about 10:30am. Someone has planted trees along the way, and some have grown enough to provide shade. In about a decade this section of the way will be in glorious shade.
We pulled into El BUrgo Ranero about 11:45 and had an hour and 15 minutes to kill before our albergue opened. Sally headed for a bar to get a coke. I went looking for a grocery store. Not finding one further down the street I started to return to the bar where Sally was. A traveling bread salesman (similar to our ice cream men-he drives down the street 100’, honks his horn and the women come out to buy bread) was in my path. I stopped to check out his wares and bought a big round loaf. Sooooo good!
I found Sally in the bar (Spaniards interchange the name bar and cafe so it is not as bad as you think) sipping a coke and enjoying life. I joined her and we slayed about 15 minutes. Back out in the street, we walked over a couple blocks to our albergue. Along the way we passed a grocery store. Hot and dehydrated as we were, we stopped for another Coke and killed another 40 minutes on the chairs outside the store.
The albergue opened and we stepped inside to sign in. Once we had our bunks located and my pack retrieved from the drop off point across the street I settled into a bench at a downstairs table and spent most the afternoon writing my blog, getting caught up (I am still writing).
Sally and I walked through this small Spanish town to the church but found it shuttered. We visited another one of the albergues and found Ed and John holed up there. A brief visit, back to the albergue and a home cooked dinner of noodle, chicken, mushroom soup and the day was done.
We met half a dozen new people today, connected with some old friends (if 6 days makes them old friends) and had a relaxing afternoon. Ready for a repeat tomorrow.
PS: Tanya update. Sandy sent me a text. Her and Regina are with Karen in Mansilla de las Mika’s, a day out of Leon and Tanya is in Leon. The swelling in her foot has decreased. No word on her ability to walk. Might know more tomorrow.
The way goes on and on. Easy to follow and well signed.
We found Gotfried on the trail.
Sally enjoys her early morning caffeine hit.
An example of a rural mud and straw house with a few brick thrown in.
Taking a rest along the trail. Benches are nice.
Entering El Burgos Renero.
Traditional gourd and seashell carries to Santiago de Compostela.
The local neighborhood bread truck.
Signing in at the albergue and getting our credentials stamped.
Chuck cooks dinner in the albergue.
Our albergue is made of mud and straw. No paint necessary. That is the natural color
Camino de Santiago Albergue De Peregrinos
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