Friday, August 14, 2015

Thursday, August 13 - Stage 16 - 0 miles, Day 28 - Cruising the Rhine on a Boat - Nimble

We each have our strengths. Working with computers. Reading people. Painting what we see. Playing music. Thinking logically. I was always amazed when sitting next to Jim Tharp at a high school basketball game. He would talk about what each member of each team was doing as they hurtled back and forth on the floor. All I saw was ten sweaty bodies running back and forth. Jim saw a kid with good left hand dribble skills, one with a good eye for passing, one with positive leadership skills that was influencing the performance of the rest of his team. As he would describe the attributes of each kid, I would watch them, but I never could see what he saw. 

We could go into a debate of whether these are talents we are born with or those we developed through experiences in life. Nature vs nurture. But, that is not of interest right now. How we got these skills takes second place to enjoying the fact that we each have them, and in particular, the talents of Sally. Of her many talents, her abilities to research, visualize the road ahead, and make plans on the spur of the moment when traveling are remarkable.  Each day we adapt our trip to the numerous outside influences that arise, the weather, the sites to see, a celebration in a town we didn't know about, the cost of camping vs. hotel vs. zimmer vs. hostel, opening and closing times of shops, ferries, museums . . . and so on. We did not make reservations or plans in advance. We are winging it each day. We read only a day or two ahead, and make plans accordingly. Sally takes in all the data; reading books, posters, the Internet, brochures and signs; talking to shop keepers, camp ground hosts, information office workers, people on the street, other cyclists; and then puts together a plan that maximizes our time and the conditions to create a remarkable day; day after day. And, she appears to do this effortlessly. I know she puts in much effort, but she loves each aspect of it and is good at it, so it seems effortless. 

We have been watching the weather the past few days, and it has been getting hotter. Originally, we were planning to cycle down the Rhine Gorge today, the prettiest section of the middle Rhine, the highlight of all the cruise boats that ply the river. But, as she read both Rick Steve's guide to the Rhine and Mike Wells' cycling guide along with Internet pages about particular spots, she suggested we cycle to Bacharach, just 10 miles into the gorge and stay at the 13th Century Berg Stahleck Castle, now a Hostel, for two nights. On our free day, we should board a river boat that transports tourists up and down the river, ride to St. Goar and visit the Rheinfels Castle perched on the cliffs above the town, then sail back for our second night in the hostel. Great plan!  But, as the weather prediction changed to  97° for Thursday, she ran the algorithm in her head again and suggested we spend two nights at the campground 10 miles before Bacharach, because it had a swimming pool we could cool off in on the hot days. We should ride the first boat down to St. Gore Thursday morning, from the campground, when it is cooler, see the castle, and board the boat in the afternoon for the three and a half hour ride back in their air conditioned dining room during the heat of the day, then swim in the pool when we get back, to cool off. She had the time table of the cruise boat, the opening times of the castle, the costs of each, the hours and costs of the pool and the details of what castles we would see along the river all scoped out. 

Honestly, sometimes I have a hard time keeping up with her. I get an idea in my head, "We are cycling the Rhine River.", and off I go, only cycling the Rhine. But, Sally sees alternatives and possibilities, constantly. "Why don't we do this and this . . . to enhance our trip, then get back on the bikes." I would plod along if not for her nimble mind and outlook for adventures. I'm the super tanker and she's the sports car. It takes me 20 miles to make a turn. She turns on a dime. 

Our boat down the Rhine set sail at 9:20 am. We slept in a bit, packed a day pack, and walked down to the landing to purchase our fare. We bought our tickets and got in line. Suddenly, we realized we forgot to get the senior discount!  We went back to the ticket booth and asked if we could get the reduced rate. They questioned our age (what a compliment!) and refunded us 30% of our original fare. 

What a great idea to take the boat. Out in the middle of the Rhine, we could see all the castles on the hills above the river, all the while, lounging in the deck chairs. We had to move to the shade for the last half hour of the ride, as the sun was a little intense. We disembarked at St. Goar at 11:20 am. We split a bakery sandwich for lunch, then climbed the hill to the castle ruins. Climbing the hill was not a good idea as the temperature was already in the mid 80's. But, we made it, a little sweaty for the effort, and walked through the castle. What an amazing work!  Walls and ramparts and tunnels and mines and towers and great rooms. The mines and dungeons were our favorites on this day, simply because they were nice and cool. The tower had a magnificent view up and down the Rhine. 

We caught the 2:20 pm boat, and just as planned, enjoyed air conditioned comfort for the three hour ride back upstream. We stepped off the gang plank into 97° heat and walked to the campground. Sally started a load of laundry while I road into town for salad making materials, then we both headed for the pool. Cooled down, we hung our clothes to dry and ate salad for dinner. Darkness was upon us. We climbed into the tent and that was the day. Another masterpiece of inventive adaption. Thank you Sally. 







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