22.0 miles - Ascent - 3496’ , Descent - 4128’
OMG!! OMG!! OMG!! OMG!! OMG!! Today was a perfect PCT day, start to finish. What, you might ask, are the elements of a perfect PCT day? Trail town, prepared food, a table and chairs, plugins to charge devices, a call home to Sally, passing by a PCTA trail crew, greeting a lesbian wedding party heading up the trail and hugging one of the brides, washing my clothes at the I-80 Donner Pass rest area, being shunned as a homeless person by a young girl, meeting three PCT thru hikers that are about my pace, clocking off 22 miles with minimal strain and camping on a ridge amongst flowers and wind with thunderstorms threatening AND cell service to boot. Now, that’s a day to put a smile on your face.
I got up at 4:45 am, ate my granola and packed, same as usual. Hip was camped about 10 feet away and I could hear he was rustling about so I didn’t attempt to be quiet. I was on the trail at 5:30 am with visions of eggs, hash browns and toast for breakfast. The trail clung to the ridge top most of the way until it switchbacked down to Donner Pass. The trail crosses this two lane highway straight away, but 0.2 miles west is Donner Ski Ranch bar where they serve breakfast. Being a little short on my calorie count each day and wanting not to lose weight too quickly, I walked down to this ski lodge, left my pack on the deck and walked in. The bar keep/waiter was super friendly and soon I was downing eggs, hash browns and toast. To be sure my calorie count got the boost it deserved, I put a pat of butter on each half slice of toast along with two jellies each. I have to admit, that much rich food in a stomach that has been used to small portions 10 times a day felt pretty heavy.
I waited about twenty minutes for Hip to arrive. I charged my iPhone and extra battery and drank a few glasses of the free soda they offer thru hikers, then packed up and headed back to the trail when Hip didn’t show. It is too bad I don’t drink. They offer a free 40 oz beer to any thru hiker.
The road was closed for a bike rally. Hundreds of cyclists went screaming past as I climbed back up to the pass. Once on the trail, Sally called and we had a long, wonderful chat as I sat on a boulder overlooking Donner Lake 2000 feet below.
Donner Pass (Hwy 40) is about 3 trail miles south of Donner Pass the freeway (I-80). While hiking the distance between the two I encountered a line of 20 well dressed and good smelling people (I am now 3 days of profuse sweating for 8-10 hours a day without a shower so I notice good smelling people). I asked what was up. They were hiking to a special spot for a wedding. I asked who the bride was and she quickly appeared from around a switchback in the trail. I asked who was the groom. They told me the second bride was about ten minutes behind. I continued on and soon came across the second contingent of the wedding party. I asked who was the bride and she stopped to say hello. I offered to hug her, but my aforementioned 3 days without a shower brought a quick rejection.
Soon I was passing under I-80 in the peculiar small tunnels they leave for that purpose and hiking the final mile to the point where the PCT passes within 150 yards of the I-80 rest stop at the top of Donner Pass. It was nice to use a real toilet in a super clean restroom. While in the stall I sorted out my dirty clothes, then exited to the water spigot off to the left side of the building. Using one of my water tight dity bags I put my dirty articles inside, squirted in some dish soap (the only kind of soap I am carrying), sealed the bag and agitated for a few moments. The water I poured out was black. I repeated the process three times until the rinses were clear then rung everything out (a pair of socks, two pair underwear, my T-shirt and a wash cloth), hung them on the outside of my pack to dry while hiking and sat down with my back against the bathroom to eat some food. As is my custom when stopped, I had taken my shoes and socks off to let my feet and socks air and dry. As I sat there a family of four walked over and were discussing which one of them should take a family picture in front of the lake behind the station. From my seated, bare foot, back against the bathroom position I offered to take it for them. I now understand the looks homeless people get on a routine basis. The daughter of about 14 first tried to ignore me, then after a moments hesitation, turned to me but didn’t make eye contact, and said “that’s okay”. She then asked a man standing near to take the photo. I understand her hesitation.
With clean underwear and socks dangling from my pack I returned to the trail and continued on. I stopped to take the orthotics our of my shoes and get a bite to eat. Three women stopped to chat and we had a great time sharing experiences and sharing hikes we look forward to. Not long afterward I passed a grubby looking guy and gal sitting in the dirt by the side of the trail eating. They introduced themselves as Judith and Pig Pen. We spoke for a few moments and I continued on.
I passed a Sierra Club cabin used for winter ski trips and stopped to check it out, then onward. Soon, I saw Judith catching up with me. I let her pass, but then hiked with her for an hour while we talked and got to know each other. We both stopped at a good water source to refresh and get a bite to eat. Judith is a 36 year old pediatrician from Germany. While chatting with her three women came down the trail and stopped to get water as well. One of them, Sparrow is a thru hiker. The other two are her friends that are joining her for a few days. We chatted and shared stories while filtering water and getting a bite to eat.
The next few miles were thru two valleys of old growth forest. Both were spectacular. Finally, the last 1.5 miles were an ascent of five hundred feet to a wooded saddle with a number of camp sites. As I sat typing this blog four kids talking Chinese arrived to camp in the same saddle. They introduced themselves as Sam, Sami, Katrine and (can’t remember). They have been named the “Hong Kong Four” because they are all friends from Hong Kong, hiking the trail together.
Great scenery, a-sit-at-a-table meal, a talk with Sally, new friends and great hiking. A perfect day.
Probably the best part of this great PCT day is that I felt great hiking all day, even the final 500’ climb. Maybe I am beginning to get my legs under me.
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