30.5 miles - Total to date - 321.2 miles
Ascent - 1614’ , Descent - 3003’ - JJ’s Cafe (1374.9)
to small creek (1404)
After a night where I got little sleep due to head downhill and flat air mat, I was loath to get up at my usual 5:00 am. But, I knew I would regret it if I did not catch the cool early morning hours. I got up and started moving. This is a particularly heinous section of trail-29 miles with no water through a treeless area that burned nine years ago. Many people skip this section. I was excited to see it because we have driven by this area many times and I wanted to see it from the hikers point of view instead of the motorist’s point of view.
I had two donuts for breakfast, quietly packed up so as not to disturb Riley, Top Notch and Joe Dirt and stopped at the sanican before I got underway.
It was actually cold! I put my fleece on as I headed down the highway. I took a right toward Susanville and began scanning for the PCT crossing the road. I found it, and set a brisk pace across the valley floor. I knew I had a 300-400 foot climb to get on top of the Hat Creek Rim and I stopped to take off my fleece before I started the climb. Once on top the trail passes through a scenic overlook and its parking lot. Here I met Assless Chaps and Spirit for the first time. They had spent the night there. We talked about the dry trail ahead. A trail angel had left 8 gallon jugs of water under one of the picnic tables. With 26 miles to go to the next water I filled my last two bottles, bringing my water total to 6 liters, about 13.2 pounds.
The trail stays right on the edge of the cliff that defines the Hat Creek Rim. The trail is nearly perfectly level for about 15 miles along this portion. I had cell service, so although it was still early I called a lot of friends and family.
At ten miles (9:09 am) I took a break, kicked off my shoes and had a big snack. I had way too much food and was trying to get rid of a bit of it. Rested and full, I picked up my pack and started off again. I filled in my info at a PCTA trail register, then passed through a gate. At mile 12 for the day I looked ahead and saw a big, white cooler under a tree. My heart lept for joy. Trail Magic. I stopped to take a picture. As I approached I saw FOUR coolers. I dropped my pack and opened the first cooler. Full of Cola sodas! I looked around for the heavenly angel that had left this bonanza. Not seeing anyone I yelled “THANK YOU!!” in all directions, then checked out the other coolers. One was full of pastries and mini powdered donuts and propel packages. The third had water bottles still half frozen. The last one had another flavor of soda and frozen water bottles. Hanging from the tree were two bunches of bananas and multiple bags of oranges. Wow!!
I popped the top on a cola and sat in one of the two chairs left for us and nearly inhaled the soda. I went for a second. I was disappointed I had eaten just a mile or two back. I just wasn’t hungry. Donuts, pastries, bananas and I wasn’t hungry.
Spirit showed up about then. She found a fruit juice to enjoy. We both wrote in the journal that the trail angel had put there. I soon left. Spirit stayed behind a while.
Back on the trail it was getting hotter. The trail stayed on top of the rim for the next 9 or so miles and cell service was good. I talked to friends as my feet pounded out the miles. I also met Apollo, Stuff Sack and Assless Chaps again. They were lounging in the shade of a tree near a 500 gallon water cache-it was empty. Stuff Sack had been given 5 quart ziplock bags full of cookies and was anxious to give them away rather than carry them. I helped her out and ate a dozen or so chocolate chip cookies. That’s just the kind of guy I am. Always willing to help.
About 2 pm the trail dropped off the plateau. I took a break and checked the temperature on my little pack thermometer. Somewhere between 90° and 95°. Ouch. The wind was blowing about 20 mph so I wasn’t getting wet from sweat, but it was sucking the moisture out of me. My 6 liters were down to 2.
Now the trail headed off across grasslands dotted with occasional trees. Still hot, still arid.
About 4:30 pm I was dogging it. I was tired, hot and mildly dehydrated even though I was continually drinking water. Problem was, my water was the same temperature as the weather, about 95°. Not cooling or satisfying to drink. I was listening to a John Grisham novel “Gray’s Mountain” when a rattlesnake 5 feet ahead of me on the trail startled me back to awareness with his rattle and hissing. He slithered off the trail keeping a wary eye on me. I passed without incident.
I came to the first paved road crossing of the day. Next to the road was a note held in place with a rock, “Turn Left. 100’ in the van. Cold water & soda.” Trail Magic twice in one day? I looked left and sure enough, there was a white van parked on the side of the road. I walked down and found Danielle from New Zealand offering a Dr. Pepper and ice cold water, plus a couple camp chairs. I pounded a Dr. Pepper then filled one of my bottles with ice cold water and soon finished it. Assless Chaps soon arrived followed in a few minutes by Joe Dirt. We all groaned with pleasure at the cold water. Even had a cotton candy flavored Twinkie. As hungry as I was, it still did not taste good.
Ten minutes and I was back on the road. I had about 3.5 miles to water and a campsite for the night. About 1.5 miles up the trail Joe Dirt came jogging past. Danielle would pick her up at the road ahead if she could be there by 8:30 pm. She was hustling.
Finally, I reached the creek and a campsite. I erected my tent, went to the creek to soak my feet, wash my legs, socks and underwear and get water for dinner. I finished up dinner just after dark and slept.
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