4.8 miles - Total to date - 415.9 miles
Ascent - 677’ , Descent - 2285’ - campsite at (1496.4) to Interstate 5 at Dunsmuir (1501.2)
I've been on the trail for 20 days. I've hiked 415.9 miles. To my shame, I have not had a zero day yet. I've pulled off a few neros, but not a zero. A day where I do absolutely nothing but let my body recover. Today can't be a zero because I have 5 miles to hike down to I-5. Tomorrow will be the day. But to accomplish a true zero, preparation is needed. Today I have to get all chores completed-laundry, shopping, resupply, etc so that tomorrow I can do absolutely nothing but rest (and eat).
We stuck to our routine, up at 5:00 am, hiking by 5:30 am. I got out ahead of Derek and did not see him behind. I stopped to take care of business and while in the bushes, he passed me. Derek seemed subdued and introspective this morning and I had a hunch I knew why. We had talked of sharing a room in Dunsmuir, but I was thinking he probably wanted his privacy-his own room. When I reached the road, his first words were, “Coach, I’m tinkin’ I need my own room.” I told him it was not a problem. He stowed his poles on his pack in preparation for hitchhiking into Dunsmuir. He also emptied his water bladder so as not to leak water in his ride. I had to head south to Castella to pick up my resupply box 2 miles to the south. He was going north 8 miles to Dunsmuir.
There is a trail to Castella that forks off the PCT, but looking at the map, the frontage road along I-5 looked shorter, plus I might catch a ride on the road. I headed south. Derek headed north to the freeway on ramp to hitch a ride.
Not a single car passed me during my 2 mile walk. I arrived at Ammirati’s store and Chevron gas station, washed up in their very dirty restroom and went inside to inquire about my box. I was pointed to a wall of shelves with maybe 10 resupply boxes and retrieved mine. I then cruised the store looking for a few supplies I needed. The store looked like something from a third world country. Lots of shelves, mostly bare. A bottle of ketchup here, some Mac and cheese there. The only shelves full were the long liquor shelves-fully stocked. He had a deli where he made sandwiches to order.
At this point I was contemplating skipping a zero day and just getting back on the trail. The one thing I needed he didn't have. It have-a fuel canister for my stove. I shook my 20 day old canister and tried to judge if I had enough or not. Hard to tell.
Out front was a picnic bench. I opened my resupply box and put lunch foods in one dry bag, breakfast and dinners in another. This way I put the breakfast and dinner bag low in my pack to reduce the center of gravity and lunch sack up top where it is easy to get at. I bought a roll of TP, a Coke, an It’s It, some M&Ms and a pound of Swiss Cheese, then packed up. I had plugged in my phone and charger in the back of the store. I retrieved them, then headed up the trail that connects to the PCT. I was still debating whether to take a zero or keep going. I would decide when I reached the PCT in two miles. Pros and cons? A zero would cost about $200 by the time I got a hotel room for two nights and bought town food. It would delay me two days. It would entail a hitch to and from Dunsmuir and mean a late start on the trail the morning I left town. On the other hand, I had hiked 416 miles without a break over the past 20 days. The bottoms of my feet were sore. I needed a fuel canister.
Messaging back and forth with Derek sealed the deal. At the PCT intersection I turned south, heading back to Dunsmuir.
When I arrived at the freeway on-ramp ready to thumb a ride I noticed a FedEx truck parked on the opposing off ramp. The driver started walking toward me. I was on the phone to Max Bigby at the time and asked Max to excuse me for a minute. The driver said he would love to give me a ride, but he would get fired. He had dropped his brother-in-law here about a week ago, headed south bound (Sobo). He told me his name was Steve. I had sat for about two hours with Steve at Burney Falls State Park chatting. Small world this hiking community. A couple cars went by while we chatted, but none inclined to give me a ride. He drove away and I began the big wait. This is a seldom used off ramp. In 45 minutes only 3 cars came by. I called Max to continue our conversation. His niece has a ‘96 Honda Accord with mechanical problems that she wants to get rid of and Max thought of me. I am excited and hope I can get it when I get off the trail.
I finally got a ride from a crotchety old local, born and raised in Dunsmuir, who dropped me off right at the Dunsmuir Lodge. I got a room ($73.00 a night PCT hiker rate) and talked with the owner (Eric) for half an hour while signing in.
The rooms are super comfy. Big log bed. Wood paneling. Super clean. Super comfortable.
First things first. Shower! I took all my dirty clothes into the shower with me and washed them all as I washed myself. Of course, even after the second washing and sixth rinse the water rung out of them was still mud brown, but light mud brown as opposed to dark mud brown as in the beginning.
I hung everything up to dry and retired to the bed to write in my blog.
After an hour, Derek and I (he is two doors down) agreed to go to lunch at the Burger Barn in town, and shop for our necessary items. It is about a mile to the Burger Barn and another mile to Dollar General. We met Bailey, Logan, Braxton and Double D downtown on our way to the grocery store. Double D looked in pain. I offered to share my room with him if he decided to stay. He said he probably would.
Dollar General had everything I needed, both foods and medicines. I loaded up on Claritin and Benadryl for the bee infested miles ahead. I got a fuel canister at the True Value in town and some hand sanitizer. Also enough food to keep me during my day of lethargy tomorrow.
We got back to the lodge at 3:30 pm. See what I mean about zero days? If this was my zero, where is the rest. By my accounts I had walked 15 miles by now.
I returned to my room and plopped on the bed, content to look up facts and maps about the transcontinental railroad I had been listening about while hiking.
Sometime after, a van pulled up in front of my room and four hikers got out. It was Road Kill, Joe Dirt, Riley and Clover. I went out to welcome them and to get their stories. They headed for their room and showers. A little later I saw them sitting on the front porch and went to visit with them. Super nice kids.
Double D showed up about 7:00 pm. I had moved all my stuff to one side of the room so he would feel welcome. He grabbed a gallon ziplock bag and iced his leg, interrupting only to nuke four burritos in the office for dinner.
We chatted during the evening. His brother was a producer at NPR for "All Things Considered" as an intern, then got hired at Vox and produces the daily Podcast “Today Explained”.
At 8:30 pm we were both yawning. 8:00 pm is hiker midnight. We turned off the lights about 8:45 pm. A great Nero day. Now for a zero tomorrow!
Just before Dunsmuir we passed the 1500 mile mark. 1500 miles from Mexico to here.
A lot of people walk the trail, so much so that their dirt trail is etched in the blacktop.
Quaint and cozy room for a zero.
Dunsmuir Lodge
Some of the great kids on the PCT preparing their packs for hitting the trail in a few hours.
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