Ascent - 4409.8’ , Descent - 4128.3’ - Fischer Lake (1611.2) To Buckhorn Spring (1632.0)
Today started out perfect. It was cool and windy. It was so cool that I needed more than a T-shirt on, but very comfortable hiking. The trail wound up through spectacular meadows and then squeezed thru a narrow pass. It switchbacked down the other side then started to climb again, up an incredibly steep slope, switchbacking a number of times. I looked up trying to figure out where the trail could go. There was rock cliffs to the left and rock cliffs above. Those were the two directions we wanted to go. A couple switchbacks later I saw that the trail picked its way through the rock cliffs. Nice job whoever engineered this trail location. It was spectacular.
As I was traversing I heard footsteps 100’ behind me and turned to see Huck Finn was gaining on me. I had met him yesterday, but only briefly. For the next 6 hours I either walked with Huck or caught him at rest breaks. We got to talk and I found a very nice young man.
Before I go into details about Huck, let me say something about my rate of hiking. If I am by myself I hike along, slower on the up hills, faster on the downhills, but generally not fast. Just a comfortable pace that can earn me 20 to 30 miles a day. But, if I hike with a kid like Huck or Top Notch or Derek or just about anyone for that matter my pace quickens so I can stay with them to chat. So was the case with Huck this morning.
Huck is 23, and is a lover of music. He plays guitar and sings, has a band and has been a studio musician in Los Angeles, his home. He attended three years of music school in Hollywood and can site read music. He doesn't like the work as a studio musician, but has found he can make good money transposing music to paper. People send him a file of their playing and he can write out the sheet music from listening. He has two classes left to finish his training. He wants to get a Westy and travel as a musician. I suggested a Sprinter van. Bigger and more reliable.
Luckily, there was a lot of downhill this morning after the two climbs, so we got to chat for quite a few hours, and at his speed and with the distraction the miles flew by. Top Notch caught up with us (me) on an uphill section. I tried to let him pass, but he said he was content to follow. This allowed me to have an out of breath conversation with him. He said he had a great time in Etna (he zeroed a day and a half-that is why I am not a couple days behind him). He said in Etna he got to spend seven hours in the bar playing the piano! He either has a great repertoire or can site read music. I gave both of them my number and told them to call me from the Goat Rocks. I would meet them at White Pass with hamburgers, pop and beer - and an electric guitar and keyboard. I want to hear these two play!! I mentioned to Clover later in the day when I saw him and he said bring a banjo for him. If this works out, this is going to be Trail Magic for me as much as for them at White Pass.
This portion of the trail is magnificent. It stays high, between 6000’ and 7000’ running the ridge tops or traversing just below them while the valley floor is 3-4 thousand feet below. This has been the case since we climbed out of Dunsmuir a week ago. The area is called the Trinity Alps. We have passed through three different wilderness areas on the past 130 miles. Soaring peaks, jagged ridges and deep valleys. Also, many many burned areas. Today wasn't too bad, but yesterday over half the day's twenty miles were through scorched forests.
Seiad Valley was 42 miles from where I camped at Fischer Lake. Tonight it is only 21 miles away. All the kids I hiked with today get town fever and put on the miles to arrive in town early. I am content to do my 20 miles (+/- 5 miles) each day even though it means my “trail family” gets away from me. They are pushing to do 30’s everyday. They feel the pressure to get to Canada by the third week of September. They calculated they must average 21 miles a day to get there by the 21st. If they do thirties, they can squeeze in some zero days. So tonight I camp about 6 to 10 miles behind the pack. I will start hiking at 4:30 am tomorrow morning, by headlamp, for the first hour. This should get me to town in the early afternoon while things are open.
Tonight I am camped at Buckhorn Spring, a wet place in a meadow with a water seep. Someone put a piece of plastic pipe in the feeble spring flow to make it easier to fill water bottles. This wet area is just like every one we have seen these past weeks-completely a buzz with hornets. Trying to fill water is like standing in a bee hive. If you think of the book 1984, each time I get water it is my Room 101. Tonight I gingerly held my bottle up to the trickling pipe, asking the bees not to sting me. They didn't listen. Somebody stung me on my right hand at the base of my pinky finger. I immediately took Benadryl and Claritin. Hopefully, that will curb the swelling. Another hiker offered to fill my bottle and I accepted, gladly.
I knew Road Kill and Clover were still behind me. As I lay resting in my tent, pitched about 5 feet from the trail, I peeked out each time I heard a hiker approach. Soon I saw them come into view. I got out and chatted with them for 15 minutes. They got a pot and a quart full of water for me before they left. Nice people, especially when you consider Clover carries an Epipen for bee stings!
Road Runner, a 23 year old from Australia has a bone in her ankle that slips out of position and pokes out the side of her foot. The ligaments are really loose. Today she applied tape to the outside of her foot to hold the bone in place. Wow! And then cranked off a thirty mile day.
Today is Tuesday. I have 90 miles left and this adventure is over. It has gone quick, yet seems like a long time. I should be at I-5 above Ashland on Sunday at a hiker stop called Callahan’s. Then to Medford for a greyhound bus trip to Centralia.
The trail passes by an outcrop of white marble in Marble Wilderness Area
Running the ridge top
That is not a tan. After 21 miles the dirt gets pretty thick. No water available to clean up with so it is to bed like this. The blister is a new addition in the past few days due to trying new insoles in my shoes. Bad idea.
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