It is cold! 43° this morning with a slight wind. Sky is overcast with the look of the threat of rain, but none in the forecast. We are up at 5:30am and walking by 6:15am. It is dark as we leave, but the sun is beginning to show itself in the east. We climb out of town and spend the morning going up and down across rolling hills, cold in the wind on the top of the rises, warmer in the protected draws. The first town is a long 7.5 miles but an enterprising entrepreneur has set up a stand at 3.5 to feed us hungry masses. We stop for a pastry, banana and some almonds. Now the path goes downhill slightly for 1.5 miles, then up over a ridge for 0.25 miles, then repeats.
As we enter the outer edges of Logroño we pass the industrial area and start walking with a couple from France. Usually the French won’t attempt conversation and walk past but Sally snared them in and they walk and talk with us for 20 minutes. It starts to rain and I wiggle my umbrella from its pocket. It drops to the ground and I stoop to pick it up. When I stand I am close to the edge of the pavement and step right on the sloping edge. My ankle rolls and down I go. I land on my side, rolling as I fall, trying to have my pack take the brunt of the fall. My left arm is caught beneath me and I fall on it and winch as my upper chest compresses from my weight. Dammit! Did I just break a rib or two? The Frenchman helps me up. I feel fine except for a little pain in my upper chest. Quick assessment. Left arm and shoulder fine. Palpate chest-tender. Pain level 2 or three. I’ll be alright. Clumsy goof. Watch where you are stepping!
It is downhill the rest of the way, about a mile and a half, to Logroño which straddles the river Ebro. We crossed the river and found the Apostle albergue where Sally and Becky shipped their packs, grabbed both and then headed back across the river to meet Becky as she came into town. The plan was to text Maxi, our Spanish friend from 2019, to meet us here between 1 and 3. It was now just 1:00pm. As we arrived at the end of the bridge we saw Maxi driving around the traffic circle. He saw us and waved, then went to park his car somewhere. As it turned out, he park on the street blocking a lane of traffic ( not very busy) and walked over to greet us and gave us big hugs.
We drove with Maxi on the scenic road to his home. We had no idea that this region is the premier wine growing area of Spain. We drove past exquisite wineries, easily 50 of them, and the region around was all fields of grape vines.
We got to their house about 2:00pm and reunited with Nerea and Raul. They asked if we would like to shower or eat first. We had been planning to eat in town before we messaged Maxi to say we were ready, but since he arrived before we expected, we had not eaten. We chose food.
Nerea had prepared a five course meal which she served in their “basement”. After our meal they told us it was siesta time and we were to rest and sleep until 6 or 7. We both took showers and then crawled into bed and fell asleep. I had a hard time waking at 5:30pm. Didn’t know how tired I was. We sat outside on their veranda, had a snack, then talked to Alva on the phone. We were going to do a walking tour, but the rain increased so we drove to meet Nerea’s sister at her job at a swanky hotel, drove around at looked at the wineries and train station and then returned to their house. About 7:30 it was time for dinner. Maxi has a name for it I. Spanish, but in English it is called bar hopping. First we went to his bar, had tapas and a drink. We visited two more bars, eating and drinking at each. Sally had an especially good time and Maxi, Nerea and Raúl enjoyed her company. At the last bar Sally sat down at a table that had three women and treated them like they were old friends. Sal moved to our own table when it was vacated. When the ladies at the other table left each came over and hugged and kissed Sally like she was their long lost friend. Maxi and Nerea loved it.
We walked back to their house about 10:30pm and called it a night. It was SOOO NICE to see Maxi, Nerea and Raul again. When we said goodbye 4 years ago on the Camino I never thought we would see them again. Glad I was wrong. Looking forward to tomorrow.
Looking back at Torres del Río s dawn breaks
Some of our fellow Camino walkers
Enterprising person sells treats along the route. “Never pass up a red chair”
In the town of Viana
Buying broccoli and cauliflower for Nerea in Viana. I had to carry it about five miles to Logrońo
Our Route nd a route marker
Me, Sally, Aideen and Owen from Ireland
Raul, me, Maxi, Becky, Nerea and Sally on their back patio.
Us with Nerea’s sister in the hotel
In Maxi’s bar, our first stop in our night of Tapas Bar hopping
Maxi points at his sign showing where his office is. He works very hard and has four businesses he has created to support his family.
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