Thursday, May 11, 2023

May 9, 2023 - Day 9 - To Puente la Reina - 15.0 miles - +1636’ - -1891’

Becky wanted to sleep in a little yet Sally and I wanted to get a quick start. We packed our packs as completely as possible the night before so we could slip out of the room without disturbing Becky or Nicko. Nicko had the fourth bed in our room of two bunk beds. 

We taped Sally’s feet in the common room, had a cup of tea and headed out about 6:30am. It was barely light, but the street lights lit our way as we walked through the city. We were a little off the trail but soon found it and followed the metal sea shells imbedded in the concrete

of the sidewalk as we wound through the city. In the process, we ran into Patty and Emma from Texas. Emma is a 16 yr old junior doing high school at home via computer. I walked with her for about half an hour and found her bright, motivated, goal oriented and hardworking. Her and I had a great time comparing her educational experiences with my teaching. We both played lacrosse so we compared notes. She wants to be a pilot among other things and I thought of Melissa as I talked to her. Yesterday, Melissa told me the story of how she came to be a pilot, working in the local hanger to earn flight time, hiding her tip money from her parents to pay for college, how she was the only female in her flight school class in the late 80’w and how she became a United pilot by age 23. Later in the day I texted Melissa to be on the lookout for Emma on the way. She would be an inspiration to Emma. 

The profile of the rout today is a symmetric 2D pyramid in shape. For about 7.5 miles we gradually go up. At the top of the ridge is the famous Perigrino sculpture. Then it is down, all the way to Puente la Reina, a town with a very famous bridge. 15 miles today, with an added 3/4 mile past town to our albergue. 

The sky remained overcast all day, with a slight wind and it rained on us for about half an hour, hard enough to merit pack covers, umbrellas and raincoats. 

As usual, many, many people passed us today allowing us to meet nearly everyone on this portion of the route. At the top we took pictures in front of the statues, then headed down.  For the first mile or so it was steep, then the slope abated. At the first town we stopped at the albergue and bought lunch. Three pieces of what the Spanish call tortillas, but it is an elegant potato quiche. Three pieces of bread. A piece of cheesecake, a coke. All for €15. 

The rain started after lunch and soon we were walking with Alexandria and Renaughty (sp?) from Germany. We have seen and enjoyed them everyday. Very sweet, demure, quiet but fun. 

At one point during the rain we took shelter under the covered walkways of a church (how pilgrim is that!!) until it passed. When the rain stopped we finished the last 2 miles down to the river and into the outskirts of town. An albergue/bar is the first place one approaches entering town. Sally was done. She could have walked the last mile to our albergue, but the chance of injury with fatigue increases and enough is enough (15+ miles). She had the man behind the bar call a taxi for her. I continued through town, stopping at the grocery store to buy food for dinner. When I climbed the steep gravel road to the albergue I was the last one of us three there. Showers, rest, preparing a cold dinner (no kitchen facilities-three bags of salad, ham and cheese pastries, milk and sodas. I tried to write in my blog but I couldn’t keep my eyes open. However, I did get caught up with the grands once a day postcards. 

The bridge over the river is ancient and famous. So much so, it is pictured on the back of the €10 bill. 

We were in a room with ten other people, yet the room was quiet and if someone snored, I missed it. 



Metal Camino markers leading us out of town



Route out of town. We are heading for that ridge line. 



Poppy’s are in full colorful bloom and lining the margins of the wheat and barley fields and the roads. 



Pilgrim packs stashed outside a wayside store while owners buy coffee and pastries



Looking back to Pamplona from near the top of the ridge



Us struggling just like pilgrims of old as we travel to Santiago to worship the remains of Saint James. 



The complete exhibit of the pilgrims statue



Poppies infiltrating the fields of wheat



Continuous stunning views as we walk



Wildflowers line the path all day long



Alexandria, Sally and Renaughty



The bridge built in the 11th century (!!) to help pilgrims cross the river safely



Our albergue is an old cattle shed converted into an albergue. 100 beds. 

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