Not a big day today, but no towns along the way. 10.6 miles to the nearest pastry and drink. Because of this, we loaded up at the grocery last night. Also, the town of Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small, meaning little chance of a grocery store. However, when we hiked this section in 2019 an enterprising capitalist had a trail side coffee/food stand set up that pilgrims flocked to like bears to a honey pot.
We were up and out later than usual, about 7:10. The walk through town is pleasant. We forget that this town is one of the bigger ones. We crossed the bridge that marks the end of town and we were walking alongside a highway for a couple miles. Finally the route just a gravel road all the way to Calzadilla. And sure enough, at mile 5 there was a coffee stand, although much upgraded from our experience of four years ago. They had moved two overseas metal shipping containers into the spot and altered them so that the long side opened up vertically, like the hatchback on a van. One was a food prep area, one had tables and chairs. They were a welcome site, not so much for the food they promised, but they blocked the cold wind that was howling across the landscape like a cheetah chasing a rabbit. To our good fortune it was blowing mostly from behind us, but it was cold. Most everyone still had their piggies on upon arrival. (Temp was 44 when we left Carrion de Los Condos-it was now 48, with a 20 mph wind gusting to 35 mph)
I had been walking with Tom from Australia. I ducked into the shipping container to escape the wind. Sally and Nicki were a minute or two behind. We stayed 15-20 minutes, me with my hot chocolate, Sally with her tea.
The rest of the way was absolutely flat on a gravel road with fields of grains to the horizon. Big sky country. The wind continued to howl, helping to push us along.
Our albergue was the first building in town on the right. Becky had been there for at least half an hour and had spent it standing in line to get registered. When I walk into the 10’x15’ room that served as a small sparsely stock store and registration room Becky was being helped. I was able to hand the receptionist my passport immediately and go up the stair where another woman was showing people to their room. Our room was just big enough to accommodate four single beds with enough room to walk between them.
I washed my shirt, socks and underwear in the sink in the back patio area and hung them to dry on the provided clothesline with the provided clothes pins.
Tom, Nicki, Tom the Chicago Cop and a few others had been downing beers and swapping stories in front of our albergue, but they had run out of tap beer. They moved to the only other food establishment in town a couple 100 yards away. With my chores done, I wandered down to enjoy their company and had a Coke.
While sitting there, Jane walk up with a noticeable limp. She is a beautiful blond in her mid 50’s. Tom massaged the sore area while I quickly watch spa YouTube video on how to tape for shin splints. Another women at the table walked up to her room and got two pieces of KT tape and I taped her shins. We were like a Indy 500 pit crew getting our car back on the road. She was blown away by the help she received and was soon on her way to the next town, Ledigoes.
I returned to my room. Sally had not felt well all day. She had crawled into bed when we got to town and slept the whole afternoon. She still did not feel very well. I wrote a couple post cards to the grands. We did not have a kitchen and eating out did not sound good. They do have cup of noodles in the sparse store for €3 each. That and a yogurt served as dinner. The woman running the albergue happily heated water to dump in our cup of noodles for our dinner.
With dinner done it was back up to bed. Some writing and then sleep.
The bridge leaving Carrion de Los Condos
What our route looked like all day
Coming into town
Didn’t take many photos today.
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