Wednesday, June 21, 2023

June 19, 2023 - Day 50 - to Dumbria - 19.2 miles - +1536’ - -2148’

The forecast for today was horrible. Dismiss. Appalling. Depressing. Or should I just say wet. (See photo of forecast below.) 




My shoes and socks are still wet from yesterday. My shirt is damp, but barely noticeable. But if it is going to rain all day it doesn’t matter, they are going to get soaked anyhow. 

There are not cooking facilities here. Last night I had a cheese and meat sandwich with some potato chips and almonds for dinner. This morning I ate my two remaining pieces of bread. Now I was carrying some curly noodles, chicken bullion cubes and four carrots I was planning on for dinner. I still had some almonds , cookies and potato chips for lunch today. I was hoping to find an open bar along the way to get a tortilla de patata or pastry to fill in the gaps. 

I was on the road at 6:40am. It was not raining!!  I made good time averaging right around 3 mph. The rain started. I put up my umbrella and my rain cover on my pack but my legs were getting wet, so I stopped to put on my rain pants. A German couple caught up with me, Katarina and Martin. We walked together for about 45 minutes until we came to an open bar in Saint Martin. They were suffering caffeine withdrawal and I was just hungry. I spent €6.90 on a Coke, muffin, pastry and chocolate bar. 

Ten minutes later we were back on the road. They started to outdistance me, which was okay. I was enjoying listening to Cryptonomicon. Up on a rise the marker signs said I should turn right. I did. I saw a blond woman coming my way. It was Lucie (pronounced Lew-see-ah) from yesterday, going the wrong way. She described how the trail went up a nearby ridge for no reason and that the road was easier. I checked FarOut. It showed the road as the route and so we started walking together on the road. 

We stopped at a bar for a bite. I had a cheese and ham croissant, Lucie a coffee. It was raining off and on throughout the day. 

Lucie is 37 years old and has visited 50 countries. She is from the Checz Republic.  She does not get along with her parents in the least and is somewhat of a family outcast. She has a loud laugh and a great smile. She also has trouble making decisions. The trail splits today, left to Fisterra, right to Muxia. She flipped a coin 3 times, best two of three decides. Only problem is she did this three times. Muxia came up the winner 2 of the three times, but as we approached the turn off she started doubting, ignored the coins and headed left to Fisterra while I went right to Muxia. I enjoyed her company and talking and laughing with her made the miles go quickly. 

After Lucie I had about three miles to my albergue in Dunbria. It was a beautiful building, well designed and very clean. I was in a room with 4 bunk beds, only two occupied by a wonderful older Brazilian couple.

I rested, cooked my noodle dinner and called my brothers for a chat. I didn’t feel like writing, so I watch a movie on my phone-“Operation Mincemeat”. It was okay. 

It was a great day. 







Styling in my Frog Togs. I rolled up the legs so I wouldn’t sweat so much. They look like knickers. 







View from my bunk in albergue



One of three similar common rooms in albergue




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