Chuck's News: June 14, 2023 - Day 45 - to Santiago - 12.9 miles - +1466’

Day 45. Doesn’t seem possible. Have we really been walking for a month an a half? Today is the day we walk into the square in front of the cathedral and officially finish our journey.

Sally and I wantedto get up and be on the route by 5:30am because the distance is a little longer today than we hoped for. Becky has made arrangements to walk this final day with Nicko from Germany. She met him back in Pamplona (day four) when he was sharing a room with us and has walked with him on many days. She plans to meet him at 6:30am.

Sally and I stuffed cheese and bread into ourselves before we walked out the door into the cool, totally dark morning, both wearing headlamps to see our way through some of the dark tree tunnels. The sky soon began to show the light of morning. At five miles we took our first break and had Coke, Orange drink and a piece of carrot cake at a trail side cafe. There was a long line for food and all the tables outside were full as a steady stream of people passed by or stopped in. Becky and Nico caught up with here and sat at the adjacent table. Nicko loves the idea of the high school prom (from watching American movies) and jokes about wanting to be a prom king.

They were up and off before we were, but soon we were making our way again. The terrain is much like it has been the last few days. The sky was overcast, another perfect morning for walking. Amy from Bellingham (age 50) joined us and we walked together for a few miles as we entered Santiago. The last two miles is through town, first the newer portion with wide streets designed for cars and then into the old town with stone buildings and narrow streets. About a half a mile out one of the steeples of the church peeks out between the buildings.

We stopped about 100 yards short of the church to get Sally to a bathroom before entering the square. As we descended to pass through the arch and into the square a bag pipe played. Once in the square we scanned the multiple 100’s of people for ones we walked with and first saw Chloe (27) and her mom and dad, from London and went over to congratulate them. While we were chatting with them Carol and Christine walked by. Sally ran over and grabbed them. Soon the two French men we had seen everyday for weeks were there as was Amy. We posed for pictures, hugged and congratulated each other.

Carol and Christine told us they had seen Becky down at the pilgrim office getting their Compostela. We scanned the crowd but didn’t see her. More conversation and talk and then we spotted her and Nicko across the square. We walked over to say hi and congratulations. They said they had already gotten their Compostela at the office. It was almost instantaneous. We left the square and walked down the ramp to to the office. They gave us a number from the machine and pointed us into the hall leading to the room where they review your credential. Five minutes later I was being interviewed by a woman from Texas via Eugene. She was more excited about me finishing than I was and spent 10 minutes trying to tell me what it means to walk the Camino and that no one understands what it means because it is beyond words. I felt like I was in a mobius loop. Finally she punched a key on her keyboard and a printer spit out my certificate. Four years ago they were hand written. I guess when more than 2000 people a day finish automation is required to meet the crush of people.

With Compostela’s in hand we found a table and had something to drink. Sally was quite fatigued from our five day 65 mile march from Sarria. Becky called to say her bag and Sally’s had not arrived at the hotel we shipped them to. Nicko spoke to them and had understood that they didn’t accept shipped bags and had then called the shipping company and was waiting for a call back. I told her where we were and that we would be back up to the square shortly, but that we couldn’t check in to our AirB&B until 2:00 so I didn’t see a need to hurry as it was only 12:39pm. Our drinks finished, we walked back up to the square and tried to call Nicki and Tom to FaceTime and share the experience with them. But, they did not pickup. Susan texted that they were out in the square in front of the Parador. We walked over and found John and Fran from Australia, Susan from Connecticut and Jo from Liverpool. We took some photos and then joined them at the outdoor terrace for lunch-well they had lunch, we just had a Coke with them. Becky called again to say she couldn’t find the B&B. I invited her over to join the group as everyone was wondering where she was and wanted to see her but she declined. It was now 1:45pm. I dug through my emails to see if I could find something to help her find the place. Earlier, she had said she had received all the emails from the host, but apparently didn’t get the link to a couple photos of the front of the building. I texted those to her.

Sally and I wound up our visit and headed to the address following Maps on our phones. We stopped at the hotel and found both packs, then walked four doors down to the AirB&B. I put the code in for the lock box and opened it, but Becky had already taken the keys and gotten inside. Sally phoned her and she came down and let us in.

Sally and I rested on the bed. Becky took a shower, then went to find the train station to assure her smooth departure in the morning. She was on the 7:55am to Madrid.

We had arranged to meet Carol and Christine in the square at 6:00. From there we would search out dinner. Susan texted to invite all of us to dinner. We declined but sent Becky Susan’s message incase she wanted to join them.

About 6:00pm we wandered back out to the square, only 100 yards away, and scanned the crowds for Christine and Carol. We spotted them and headed south of the cathedral down the road with many restaurants and shops. We found an outside restaurant and had a great dinner. We were seated outside at a table right next to the stream of traffic passing by. We were constantly interrupted as people recognized Sally and stopped to say hi. Ian from Australia was first. Then two vivacious Italian ladies stopped by. Sally had been singing “Yellow Submarine” with them the day before. They were loud and boisterous and starting singing Yellow Submarine again. The waiter stopped by to take our order, then thought better of it, smiles and left. He would be back when they finished. We had a great dinner and fun conversation. They are really a fun couple. Afterwards, we strolled farther up the road, found an ice cream cone shop and each had a cone.

We returned to our room about 9:00 pm. Becky was still out. Sally called her to be sure she was safe. She said all was okay and she would be back soon. And with that our Camino walk came to a close. We still have more to do, two weeks more. We will spend a week walking to the coast, visiting Muxia and Fisterra, another day in Santiago and then a flight to Barcelona and four days there before returning home.

The crowd stops at the first coffee shop. Nicko and Becky caught up with us here.