Chuck's News: June 7, 2023 - Day 38 - to O Cebreiro - 11.5 miles - +2922’

I woke at 5:00am to the sound of rain water gushing through a downspout outside our room. Bummer. The forecast was right, rain all day today. We arose, packed and headed downstairs to eat breakfast. The rest of the albergue was still asleep. The host had laid out breakfast with place settings at the tables and breads near the toasters on the counter against one wall. Breakfasts here have been just bread and jams, sometimes meat and cheeses. Today, just white bread and jam, along with orange juice, tea or coffee. We each had a couple pieces of toast and a cup of tea, Becky had coffee. The rain was audible outside, gurgling down the downspouts.

With rain pants and coats on, we opened the heavy wooden door out onto the street and started our walk for the day. I had brought an umbrella and now employed it for the first time to stop rain. It had been shading me from the sun just yesterday. I love an umbrella in the rain. You don’t have to wear a hood to keep the rain off your head and you can unzip your coat to let the heat generated by walking escape.

The first 6 miles was gentle uphill along the river through three or four very small towns. I had remembered a bakery a few miles up and we planned to stop. It was in the bottom of a house off the road to the left, directly under the freeway which was perched on pillars about 200’ above. Janet from Colorado passed us seeking a rumored bakery. I told her of my memory of it from our 2019 Camino and we soon we found it. They were just opening. We stepped inside, shed our dripping raincoats and had a pastry. Not the delightful place I remember, but it was nice to get out of the rain for a few minutes.

Back on the road we continued to wind up this beautiful, lush valley, reminiscent of walking up a narrow river valley in Western Washington, a stream noisily rushing downhill, verdant green foliage everywhere and rain falling, wetting everything.

When we reached the town (10 buildings) of Las Herreias the route abruptly starting climbing. We gained 900’ in the next 1.5 miles in ascending to La Faba. The Way started on paved one lane road then turned to a one lane wide dirt road deep in mud and horse manure. The rain had turned the surface into 2” deep mud, although with careful foot placement you could find stones to walk on to keep above the mud most of the time.

Tom, the retired cop from Chicago walked with us most of the way.

We reached LaFaba (10 buildings) and found an open cafe. There was room inside for us, in fact most people were just leaving an we easily found a table to sit at (small place, only 5 tables total). We had a sandwich and a tapas to eat. While we eating are the owner built a fire in the fireplace which I sat in front of and dried my sweat soaked shirt. We were there about half an hour when Becky arrived. She looked like she was doing well and shared some photos of things she saw along the way, most of which we had missed. Nico was only a few minutes behind her. We headed out while she stayed to eat with Nico.

We had 3 miles and another 1200’ up to go. The rain was now more of a mist and a steady wind was blowing although the road was now sunken I to the hillside so most of the breeze passed overhead. We were in meadows now, cow pasture really. Theee times cows were herded past us as we walked up the fenced road, necessitating us to stand on the road margin to let them pass. We were still in the inches deep mud which was now often unavoidable.

About 1:45 we were just short of the town so I called our lodgings to let them know we would arrive, thus securing our rooms.

We crested the ridge to find a strong wind blowing through the cloud and mist shrouded town. The stone buildings and thatched roofs peaked out through the mists. We found Becky, who had passed us minutes before with Nico outside a trinket shop. We wander this one lane 10 building town until we found Carolo restaurant and rooms. We had to drop down to the highway side of the building to enter. We walked into their restaurant dripping wet. Inside all the tables were full with people and pilgrims comfortably eating. The interior reminded me of the Prancing Pony from LOTR.

The landlady lead us up to our rooms. Sally and i had the “Matrimonial Suite” which overlooked the valley thousands of feet below, which now was just a wall of clouds. Becky was on the hillside side of the building.

Sally went to the bar to sit with Nico while he ate. I took the opportunity to write in my blog in which I was days behind and to stretch.

We hung our wet things to dry on the room, but without heat this would be a very slow process as the humidity was hovering near 100%. But, luck was on outside. I grabbed my umbrella to go search out a store for breakfast and found it had not only quit raining but the clouds had cleared out to reveal a view off both sides of the ridge. I found the store, got bread and jam and bananas for breakfast and returned. Sally and I walked around this picture perfect town, built for tourists and FaceTimed the grandkids. Back in our room later we FaceTimed with Bill and Pat and John and Cheryl.

We went to the bar for pizza for dinner with the Georgia Boys and Tom. After that it was time for bed. What a satisfying day!

Walking in the rain