Today is the day we pass over the high point on the Way and pass by the Iron Cross (Cruz de Ferro), a significant landmark on the Way. Here, for centuries, pilgrims have been bringing a stone from home to leave as a tribute to someone they love or to their God. It is an iron cross mounted on a 40 foot pole, now surrounded by a very large heap of stones. We were awake at 5:15am this morning. We cooked a packet of chicken noodle soup for breakfast downstairs in the communal kitchen and were out the door about 6:25am. We all left together. First town on the way is Foncebedón at 3.5 miles where we stopped for coffee, Coke, and a snack.
As we left town we passed a little pond making riotous noise. It is mating season for the frogs of the sea and they were splashing around and making a racket. We soon reached the Cruz de Ferro. There was quite a gathering here, most of whom we knew. Everyone was respectful as each person climbed the stone pile to the base of the cross to have their picture taken. Tears were shed by quite a few as they deposited their stone offering in honor of someone.
From here the way modulates up and down for about 3-4 miles past a few wayside coffee stands set up by enterprising entrepreneurs, then drops steeply down 1500’ to the town of El Acebo. We stopped at the first coffee stand. Sally visited with everyone here. (this adventure was tailor made for her as she meets and greets everyone all day long. Everyone knows who Sally is and beams when she approaches).
The trail wiggled along on its high traverse until it rounded the last ridge and we could see down into Ponferrado 10 miles distant and 3000’ below. Here the trail starts its precipitous drop. At this point the trail is quite gullied from rain water running down it. Since the narrow two lane road runs right next to it many, including us, chose to walk the road with its smooth surface over the loose rocks and ditch like shape of the trail. It added a quarter mile or so to the distance but was the preferred choice. We walked with a couple couples from Ireland, dodging a group of 25 motorcycles screaming past. We rejoined to rocky trail for the last 1/2 mile into town. The first albergue in town has a nice outdoor terrace and we could hear the laughter emanating from it as we approached from above. Here we found Pierre and Joe, a sweet woman from Liverpool and Susan from Connecticut, plus a cast of 10 more. Rosie from New Zealand had been walking with us the past 3 or 4 miles.
We spent an hour on the terrace eating lunch of bread, meat and cheese I had been carrying plus purchased Cokes.
It was a riotous lunch inThe rain. It had started raining about 10 minutes before we arrived and now had settled I to off and on rain. We were safely ensconced under the large umbrellas of the terrace as we ate and conversed. This was Pierre’s second to the last night on the trail. He busses to Santiago day after tomorrow and flys home the day after that, so he was in good humor but admitting to missing the trail now that he was finally getting in shape.
We walked down to our place for the night arriving about 3:30. We were expecting to be in a room for eight, which we were, but as luck would have it, we were the only three in it. An impromptu private room. There have been a lot of sick people so we have been booking private rooms in an attempt to dodge the diseases going around.
We had hamburgers and fries out on the deck about 7:00pm, then returned to our room for the night. Another great day!!
The way is now in the mountains
Girl moment. Sally, Becky, Joe and Susan
Main Street of Foncebedon
Small cafe and store in Foncebedon
Becky at the Cruz de Ferro
Cruz de Ferro from the other side. Quite a pile of rocks.
Usie at the Cruz de Ferro
Coffee stop on the ridge
South a Koreans at coffee stop
Food wagon
Looking down on El Acebo from the trail
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