Wow! Was I cold last night! The ground just sucked the heat out of me right through my sleeping pad. I didn’t get much sleep, spending most of the night rolling over and over trying to get one side warm while the other side was freezing.
It was a weird night for other reasons as well. It is the first night I have slept without someone nearby. At first it was Dallas, then DG and Franzia, then Nico and Enigma. This was only the second night I was completely alone. During the night I would think “Oh, I hey are just camped over there a few feet.” Then I would become fully awake and realize I had no idea how far it was to the next person-how many miles.
It was weird to wake up and prepare to hike by myself. Usually I have to time my departure with one or more other persons. There is always a tension to match their movements so no one is sitting waiting for the other. But, this morning all I had to do was my routine at any pace I desired. It was a new experience.
Did I mention it was cold? It was!! My water bottles next to me in the tent were not frozen, but the ground was and every little puddle, stream and body of water was either solid ice or had a thick coating. Actually, this is nice. The mud is frozen as are the snow fields. Makes for quick walking - like walking on concrete.
I passed two tents in the first mile. I was moving by 5:35am. Most people don’t like rising this early.
All the talk before Pagosa Springs about snow proved false. Even between 11,000 and 13,000’, which is the whole length of the trail, I encountered only brief (like 30’ max) patches of snow.
The trail stayed on the ridges, big broad rolling surfaces, the opposite of rocky ridges. At one point it climbed 1500’ over an imposing looking peak. The trail had a perfect grade as it switchbacked up the very steep slope to the pass at the top. Whenever I like. these trails I am always amazed that someone conceived of such a route and then built it. A shoutout to trail designers and builders.
Since Jif and Bingo Bongo are turning off at the Creed Cutoff and everyone I talked to said they were not coming his way I figured I might be alone. About 10:30am I had a hiker pass me. This was Shredder. I passed him about noon while he was stopped for lunch. At least there is someone else. About 1:30 I came along two other hikers, El Chapo and Yeti who were stopped at a small tarn filling their water bottles. As they prepared to leave a young woman came up the trail to the water. Her trail name was Happy, and yes she was. There was also two other hiker above the water resting against a boulder. More people than I expected, good.
I was hoping for a twenty mile day, but I was already feeling fatigued and had only gone about 13 miles. This hiking between 11,000’ and 13,000’ is tough. I was able to crank out another 5ish miles before fatigue overpowered me. The trail was running a rounded ridge top covered in snow, but in a low spot in the ridge I found a patch of level ground on which to pitch my tent. I was only a foot or two from the trail so I got to meet everyone as they passed, all headed for Cherokee Lake 3 miles further. There were Happy, Special K, Puddles, Sunny D, Yeti, and El Chapo. Shredder was already ahead of me.
It was only 4:00 in the afternoon. I was really beat so I didn’t get a lot done. Mostly laying down and resting. But, much needed. I noticed the ground I was camping on was not frozen so I hoped for a better night’s sleep.
Trail and view near 11,000
Sign at Creed Cut-off
Trail heading for massive mountain on center skyline.
Sketchy trail on face of 12,800’ mountain
A weather beaten sign along the trail
A testimony as to how cold it gets at night. These rocks have an inch of ice on them.
The view out my tent on the ridge.
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