Oh Boy! When I get off trail I do it big and interesting.
The trail today was really the old railroad bed for the Chalk River line. The grade was perfect and you could see the big cut in the hillside as it worked its way up the valley clinging to the hillside. It was impossible for the tracks to go up over Alpine Pass so the railroad company decided to tunnel through the mountain. Just before the point where the grade turned to go through the mountain the trail turned and climbed up 450’ to Alpine Pass. At the top, the trail turned right and began running the ridge. Me? I missed this fact and assumed (an ass of you and me?) the trail descended the other side. A trail does descend the other side, but not the CDT. From the pass I could see remains of tracks, some buildings, a turn table and other artifacts of the old train that used to run through these mountains. I descended all the way and read the interpretive signage, entered the old telegraph building and enjoyed seeing a piece of history. Satisfied, I looked at FarOut to see where the trail went from here. Shoot!! The trail was back up on the ridge 3/4 of a mile and 450 vertical feet away! The train stuff was interesting, but this was a price I would not have paid had I realized while still at the top of the pass. Somewhat chagrined at my mistake I hiked back up to the top of the ridge, turned left and continued on the CDT, about an hour and a half later than I would have been. I did get some nice photos though.
Now I had a concern. Monk likes to sleep in about an hour and a half to two hours longer than I do. He usually starts hiking about 8:00. Our plan was he would catch up with me because he hikes so much faster. Did my detour allow him to get in front? Was he hustling to try to catch me when in fact I was behind? As I walked the sometime muddy, sometime snowy trail I looked for fresh signs of his tracks. I couldn’t really tell if what I saw were yesterday’s footprints of fresh ones from today.
The trail stayed in the high alpine meadows for a few miles then dropped 1000’ into the North Fork of Chalk Creek. At the bottom I stopped at the bridge across the creek to eat lunch and soak my feet in the cold river. Monk showed up about 15 minutes after I had sat down. He had been behind me.
Being a slower hiker than Monk, I left before he had finished. The trail now climbed 1800’ out of the North Fork of the Chalk. I suspected he would catch me quite soon.
I have experienced all sorts of trails on the CDT so far. Some are just ruts that go straight up the fall line, full mm of rocks and boulders. Some are sites in within the last thirty years and do not have a consistent grade, wandering up and down hill. This trail was perfect. A steady uphill grade, never unnecessarily going down hill. The tread was smooth and consistent, no rocks, no roots. At the switchbacks the grade steepened slightly to ward off temptation of downhill hikers to cut the switchback. It was the kind of trail you could set a steady pace on and maintain it mile after mile during the climb. It made the ascent quick and enjoyable.
At the top the trail traverses spectacular open meadows again for a couple miles before coming to the next downturn, an overlook into South Cottonwood Creek. Here I sat and waited for Monk to catch-up. He arrived after about 15 minutes.
We had leapfrogged 70 Ton Hammer and Kyle twice and they passed us as we enjoyed the view and sunshine. I made FaceTime calls to Andy and Ed, showing off the scenery and making sure all resupply issues were handled.
After about half an hour it was time to go. We descended about 670’ into the bowl, then climbed up and over the lip on the other side. The dropped down through rock slides, snow and debris then began traversing a side hill. It was looking like a repeat of last night as far as finding a flat place to camp. But, just before the climbing really got started we found a small meadow about 30’x100’ level enough to provide good camping. As we dropped our packs 70 pound Hammer and Kyle walked up. Well, Hammer walked up. Kyle limped into the meadow, not letting his left heel touch the ground. His plantars fasciitis was flaring up. I saw a snow patch a couple hundred yards up the trail and offered to fetch a gallon baggie sod it if he thought it would help. He said yes, so before I pitched my tent I hiked up and retrieved a gallon of snow.
Once I had my tent up I needed water which was in a stream a couple hundred yards back on the trail. I asked if any one needed water. Of course Kyle did, he was icing and couldn’t walk. I filled two liters for me and one for Kyle. Chores done, I crawled in my tent and got comfy for the night. Snuggled under my down quilt, belly full of food I wrote for a bit listening to the wind rattle the tent fabric.
In Salida I decided to try hiking without my air mattress. I now had the Zpad for ground insulation. I mailed my inflatable to the next resuppply, Twin Lakes. Now I was sleeping on the ground with only a Zpad for insulation and cushion. It is great for insulation. Not so padding. During the night I rotisserie rolled to transfer the discomfort of the hard ground from hip to butt to other hip. Only sleeping on my stomach was pain free. Two more nights to Twin Lakes. I can endure it.
The trail is an old railroad grade. You can see it cutting across the hill side way up the valley.
I’m now off trail, but the excitement of seeing an old railroad tunnel, turntable and telegraph staton kept me from checking FarOut to see if I was on or off route.
The old railroad grade leading up to the now collapsed tunneling under Alpine Pass
The restored telegraph office complete with tracks. The door was unlocked and it was allowed to enter and walk through the building. Pretty cool.
The trail and the distant meadows to traverse before
Dropping down into North Fork of Chase Creek
Monk took a photo of me at the end of our half hour of sitting, FaceTiming and enjoying the view before descending.
Monk and I have been hiking together for just a couple days. He hikes faster but I get up and out earlier so it all works out.
Beautiful Mountain views at every turn and twist in the trail.
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